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Virgin Roadtrip 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c C1 [details]
FA: Glime, solo: 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Nov 5, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: That is a hard crack to ignore.

Description 

Viewed from the interstate, the tower that this route climbs is approximately 100 feet high, but the route starts from a saddle on the north side and the climb is only about 40 feet long. When you see the beautiful splitter crack, you may want to attempt the route free. As the crack cleans up, I have no doubt that this could be accomplished. It is slightly overhanging near the top.

This route climbs the obvious crack on the north side of the tower. I stopped to check out the tower when I saw the very obvious crack that splits the west side of the formation, but on closer inspection realized that this is an offwidth. The crack that Virgin Roadtrip follows can not be seen from the interstate.

Follow three bolts to the obvious crack. Climb the crack to the top and a two bolt anchor. The very top is a boulder move on loose dirt (literally) above the anchor. (I used an ice axe to gain that perch, but I was not brave enough to stand up and walk around... but then again, I was alone.)

Location 

You could park your vehicle on the interstate, hop the fence and walk to the tower. Or, my approach, take exit 108, head north until you come to a wash. Take a right into the wash and drive until you come to another wash on your left. Park and walk in from there.

Protection 

1-red (size 1) camalot, 1 yellow (size 2)camalot, 2 or 3 blue (size 3) camalots, 2 or 3 gray (size 3.5) camalots.


Photos of Virgin Roadtrip Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Splitter!  but... it isn't as clean as it looks.
BETA PHOTO: Splitter! but... it isn't as clean as it looks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Virgin Roadtrip climbs the splitter crack on the r...
Virgin Roadtrip climbs the splitter crack on the r...

Comments on Virgin Roadtrip Add Comment
Show which comments
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 5, 2006

This climb is on the verge of being 1 star, I gave this climb two stars because it was a good climb from my point of view. But climbing dirty towers is probably somewhat demented, so depending on your perversion, you may or may not enjoy the route. It is definitely not classic!
By Ben Kiessel
Nov 17, 2006

I don't know John, is that really a tower? It is pretty close to being fatter then it is wide.
By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Nov 17, 2006

You could say the same about Montezuma's Tower in Garden of the Gods if you look at it from the right angle.

Nice work, John. Thanks for the addition.
By Ben Kiessel
Nov 24, 2006

Don't get me wrong, I don't mean any disrespect. Nice send John.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 30, 2006

Bryan, come on down and join me! There are lots more in the works. Ben's just giving me crap about a conversation we had recently in Moab. And Ben, it is a tower dammit, I took out my tape measure! I look forward to more climbs with both of you.
Cheers.

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