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Virgin Islands Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 33.9462, -116.0766 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,687
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 29, 2002
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Darshan on Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market. Photo by...

Description 

The Virgin Islands, despite it's ease of accessibilty, remains one of the quieter and less frequented climbing areas in the Park. The crowds are fewer here and the solitude, especially away from the road, is quite noticable. The first documented climbing was done here in the early 1980's by the ubiquitous Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas who climbed the bulk of the best crack lines. Since then a number of quality crack and face climbs have been done with limited development continuing to this day.

Some of the recommended cracks here include the fairly enjoyable wide to hands crack of Thumbs Down Left (5.9), Light Sabre (5.10b) with it's clean corner and exposed crack higher, Between a Rock and a Hard Place (5.10b) for those seeking a full body workout, Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market (5.10d) a tricky thin crack, Perpetual Motion (5.10d) a steep hand crack, Centurion (5.10d) for those whose like it wide and Human Sacrifice (5.11c) for those who want to step it up a notch.

A sampling of recommended face routes include the relatively unknown Hodad Arete (5.10b), the sandbagged Raker's Blaring Hat Rack (5.10d) which climbs a free-standing spire, Hot Lava (5.11a) with it's delicate arete moves, the somewhat obscure Walking on the Moon (5.12a), Rapture of the Steep (5.12b) with it's steep face goodness, the overhanging arete of Dictators of Anarchy (5.12c) and the continuously difficult and excellent New World Order (5.13b A0).

Getting There 

The Virgin Isles are reached by drving down the Geology Tour Road about 4.2 miles and parking in any of several pullouts along the side of the road. The formations are easily visible from the road and hiking times vary from 5-20 minutes with some scrambling typical. Take care if driving a 2WD vehicle to park pointing downhill. Should you get stuck you can continue driving further down the road to a turnabout at Squaw Tank (1.1 miles down the road) which has a large area suitable for turning around.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.0 miles from here

47 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',7],['5.9',4],['5.10',18],['5.11',7],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Virgin Islands Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Virgin Islands Area:
Keith's Ripped Back   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Lechlinski Crack Formation
Lechlinski Cracks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Lechlinski Crack Formation
Peter Meter   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Little Europe
Light Sabre   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Star Wars Rock
Between a Rock and a Hard Place   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Star Wars Rock
Waugh Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lechlinski Crack Formation
Perpetual Motion   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Perpetual Motion Wall
Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Star Wars Rock
Centurion   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Diamond Clump : Centurion
Walking on the Moon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Star Wars Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Virgin Islands Area

Featured Route For Virgin Islands Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Triet Le sending

Centurion 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Centurion
When someone says "striking line" this route could be the definition. A summit block split by an ever widening crack with sky on both sides. The business starts pretty early as the initial moves to get above the roof are the crux. Once you are established in the crack there is some nice OW to the summit, thankfully with a secure leg and knee in most of the way. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Virgin Islands Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Virgin Isles from the south, Joshua Tree NP
Virgin Isles from the south, Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: Virgin Islands. Photo by Blitzo.
Virgin Islands. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: A sudden downpour near the Virgin Islands, Joshua ...
A sudden downpour near the Virgin Islands, Joshua ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the Geology Road, Joshua Tree NP
Looking down the Geology Road, Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock art. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock art. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chemehuevi grinding holes, Joshua Tree NP
Chemehuevi grinding holes, Joshua Tree NP

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