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Virgin Dance of the Twin Chain Saws 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: 
Season: all
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: 54321 on Aug 9, 2011

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Description 

Line starts 20 feet left of Bolts to Nowhere. The line starts going right, then turns left, and then staright up to slings below roof. An old guidebook says to go to Blts to Nowhere anchors, but it is more direct to just go staright up to the slings.

Location 

A 70 meter rope will get you to the ledge/flake below olts to Nowhere. If you have a 60 it might be a good idea to tag another line.

Protection 

bolts and small gear


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By Rick Torre
Jan 23, 2017

YES,THE OLD GUIDE IS INCORRECT:AFTER THE 6TH ?BOLT CLIMB PAST TWO RUNOUT BOLTS,STRAIGHT UP TO ANCHOR AT ROOF.PORCELLA CLIMBED UP AND LEFT TOCORNER,NEEDS TO CONTINUE.UPPER BOLTS ARE WORST ROUTE IN THE ROOT,JON TURK +?.A LOWER BOLT IS STILL IN THE FLAKE THAT PEELED OFF THE WALL;WHY ANDROID AND I DID THE NEW START!!!

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