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Virgin Canyon

Select Area...
Beyond Ripped Wall 
Cat Wall 
Flamingo Wall 
La Primera Plancha / The First Flatiron 
La Segunda Plancha / The Second Flatiron 
Lower Virgin 
Ripped Wall 
Suicide Overlook 
Surf Board, The 
Upper Virgin 

Virgin Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Location: 25.94968, -100.47854 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: MAKB, Hank Caylor, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 15, 2008

78° | 55°

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BETA PHOTO: The Virgin Canyon


The rock quality and routes in this canyon tend to be very good (especially on the north-facing side). This canyon gets midday and afternoon shade in the winter which is a nice respite from the sun when it gets hot. In the summertime, when the sun is higher in the sky, this canyon is still pleasant in the early mornings and evenings. As you walk up the canyon from the aqueduct, these areas on the left wall are listed in the order that you encounter them:

The Surf Board
Cat Wall
Lower Virgin
Upper Virgin
Ripped Wall
Beyond Ripped Wall

Then as you descend the canyon from the top the areas on the opposite wall listed in order of encounter are:

La Segunda Plancha / The Second Flatiron
Suicide Overlook
La Primera Plancha / The First Flatiron

As you reach the bottom of the canyon and are almost at the swimming pools, turn left and the Wonder Wall begins by the BBQ grills (you are now technically out of the Virgin Canyon on the north facing side of the North wall of Virgin Canyon).

Getting There 

As you walk into the park this is the first major canyon on your right, just past the swimming pools.

Climbing Season

For the El Potrero Chico area.

Weather station 4.6 miles from here

60 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',31],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',2]

Classic Climbing Routes in Virgin Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Virgin Canyon:
Gracias Mi Amor   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Upper Virgin
The Cat's Meow   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Cat Wall
Scaredy Cat   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Cat Wall
Cat Daddy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Cat Wall
The Gringo Ate My Baby   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 100'   Cat Wall
31-foot smurf   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Cat Wall
Chicaboom Nights   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Upper Virgin
Mr. Patacca   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 95'   Upper Virgin
Selam   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 130'   Lower Virgin
Penitente   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Cat Wall
Mugre   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   Lower Virgin
Mugre Mugre   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Virgin
Blind Faith   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 4 pitches, 420'   Cat Wall
Bad Cop, No Donut   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Lower Virgin
Silverfish   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   Lower Virgin
Don Quixote   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Virgin
The Shroud   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 4 pitches, 420'   Lower Virgin
Mexico in Flames   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Lower Virgin
El Balota   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 110'   Lower Virgin
Cabeza de Chivo   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Lower Virgin
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Virgin Canyon

Featured Route For Virgin Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Mugre Mugre starts on a big flake two lines to the...

Mugre Mugre 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  North America : Mexico : ... : Lower Virgin
Mugre Mugre starts at the bottom of a large flake two routes to the right of Don Quixote in the Virgin Canyon. The guidebook calls is R because the first bolt is about 20(ish) feet off the ground -- but there are solid moves and big holds to the first bolt.Climb strait up the large flake on good laybacks and small feet. Towards the top make a big move right and follow the bolts up and right to a two bolt anchor. Originally the route went up and left and at least one bolt can lead you astray...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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