REI Community
Tiara Rado
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
100' Hands T 
Agustina's Tower T 
Dirty Martini T 
Disappear/Reappear T 
Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 
First Impressions T 
Flapper T 
Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 
Jolly Kicks T 
Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss T 
Large Surprises T 
Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 
Second Coming, The T 
Short, Cupped Hands T 
Sickle T 
Singles T 
Slaughterfist T 
Soren Roof T 
Things Fall Apart T 
Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 

Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2 PG13

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2 PG13 [details]
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Paul S on Jan 28, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


This is the tower in front of Agustina's and Eagle Tower, it's easily identified with an arch like feature on its backside.

P1 & 2, climb the same 1st 2 pitches of Agustina's. Move belay 30' up using the same belay as you would for the last pitch on Agustina's.

P3 Squeeze up the arch, avoiding some big loose blocks. You're aiming for an obvious little slot that you can get pro in, it's a bit run out getting there. Once there, slam in a #4 and/or a #5 cam and pendulum left to the junky crack. The quality of it improves, but after the bulge it takes a turn for the worse. The crack/seam traverses left and the upper portion of the crack is very hollow. When I weighted the first cam I placed sand came pouring out. It's spooky. If I were to do this again I think I would bring some hooks and use those instead of having to deal with that hollow section again. After this, some fixed protection leads to a mantel to the top.

This route really is probably only C2, but I was a little more nervous than I typically get at this grade..YMMV.


Right in front of Eagle Tower and Agustina's. The route climbs the big gash up to the notch between Agustina's and Virga and then climbs the backside of the tower.


Similar rack as for Agustina's, but with a few extra finger sized pieces. A few hooks might make it safer. A single 70 m (a 60 m might work) gets you down in two rappels with a little scrambling to get to the second rap's anchor, which is located across the gap from the top of P2.

Comments on Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About