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Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 

Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C2 PG13 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Paul S on Jan 28, 2015

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Description 

This is the tower in front of Agustina's and Eagle Tower, it's easily identified with an arch like feature on its backside.

P1 & 2, climb the same 1st 2 pitches of Agustina's. Move belay 30' up using the same belay as you would for the last pitch on Agustina's.

P3 Squeeze up the arch, avoiding some big loose blocks. You're aiming for an obvious little slot that you can get pro in, it's a bit run out getting there. Once there, slam in a #4 and/or a #5 cam and pendulum left to the junky crack. The quality of it improves, but after the bulge it takes a turn for the worse. The crack/seam traverses left and the upper portion of the crack is very hollow. When I weighted the first cam I placed sand came pouring out. It's spooky. If I were to do this again I think I would bring some hooks and use those instead of having to deal with that hollow section again. After this, some fixed protection leads to a mantel to the top.

This route really is probably only C2, but I was a little more nervous than I typically get at this grade..YMMV.

Location 

Right in front of Eagle Tower and Agustina's. The route climbs the big gash up to the notch between Agustina's and Virga and then climbs the backside of the tower.

Protection 

Similar rack as for Agustina's, but with a few extra finger sized pieces. A few hooks might make it safer. A single 70 m (a 60 m might work) gets you down in two rappels with a little scrambling to get to the second rap's anchor, which is located across the gap from the top of P2.


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