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5.2 Top Shelf
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Right then, I’ll go to Hell TR 
Allowed she would Sivilize me TR 
Cartwheel through a Mosque TR 
Cross Bronx wrong exit TR 
Further Bus TR 
Left Bracket T 
Lemon Tart TR 
Madness in Any Direction TR 
Masters of the Universe TR 
Maybe it Meant something TR 
Not Eternal TR 
Opened my Mouth, Almost TR 
Sampo, The TR 
Too Rare to Die TR 
Too Weird to Live, and TR 
Väinämöinen TR 
Warn’t no home like a Raft TR 

Väinämöinen 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: TR Will Bergman
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: kenr on May 16, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Top Shelf left+center E. Väinämöinen F. the S...

Description 

Thoughtful moves the whole way, with a strenuous sequence in upper half. Sustained overhanging. If only this were longer.

Up left side of crack. Step R at horizontal​ break. Next diagonal up Left a bit, then up to top.

name? From the Kalevala of Finland.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

Obvious vertical crack about 10 feet left downhill from the obvious gully / wide crack in the middle of this sector which goes up to an overhang at its top right.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection 

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Top Shelf sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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