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Third Sella Tower
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Vinatzer T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 13 pitches, 985'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Giovanni Battista Vinatzer, Vicenzo Peristi. 1935
Season: Summer
Page Views: 2,836
Submitted By: e Dixon on May 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Vinatzer route - Sella Tower III


Good route that ascends the west face to the tower.

Pitch 1 - Move up over slab and trend to the left towards a small scree patch. (35m)

Pitch 2 - Face climb straight up to the base of a chimney. (45m)

Pitch 3 - Climb the chimney to a crack and through a small overhang. (40m)

Pitch 4 - Follow a broken crack and face. (40m)

Pitch 5 - Short pitch up a ramp/groove to below a small overhang. (15m)

Pitch 6 - Climb up another broken crack and some face to gain the large terrace. (45m)

Pitch 7 - Traverse left on the terrace around a large boulder to the base of a steep finger crack. (20m)

Pitch 8 - Climb the steep finger crack and then face. (25m)

Pitch 9 - Climb the crack that trends up and left to the base of a corner/groove. (25m)

Pitch 10 - Climb up and then right ascending the corner/groove. (35m)

Pitch 11 - Move right around the arete and up through a chimney to a ramp that angle up and right. (45m)

Pitch 12 - From the ramp, follow a crack up and left which leads to a chimney. Climb the chimney to a stance on a small ledge. (25m)

Pitch 13 - Climb up easy slabs to the top of the formation. (50m)

Descent - Head down towards Piz Ciavazes on a well-marked path to a ring bolt. Rappel 25m. Continue following red markers to the left to the terrace. Follow the terrace to a gully. Climb down the gully until it gets steep. From here, take a narrow ledge to the left. From the end of this ledge, climb down 5m looking for a ring bolt. Continue down making three rappels of 15m, 20m, and 20m. This takes you back to the base of the wall.


The route ascends the west face of the tower.


There are a number of pins in place. Bring a selection of nuts and slings. Maybe a few small to medium cams as well.

Photos of Vinatzer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux roof crack
The crux roof crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper face of the Third taken from the Second.  Vi...
Upper face of the Third taken from the Second. Vi...
Rock Climbing Photo: High up on Vinatzer
High up on Vinatzer
Rock Climbing Photo: The quick approach with the mountain in the backgr...
The quick approach with the mountain in the backgr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo.

Comments on Vinatzer Add Comment
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By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 23, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A beautiful classic line up the right then center of the face. For the experienced crack climber the "crux" roof is quite easy. Like most routes in the area - a very easy approach with a quick descent make this a nice route to do on a day that you don't get an early start.

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