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Village Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bridge Tender S 
Pillage the Village S 
Village Idiot S 
Village People S 

Village Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,685'
Location: 38.9893, -119.9087 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,231
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Refuge Jared on Sep 8, 2016

54° | 34°

65° | 34°

68° | 34°

72° | 36°

70° | 36°

62° | 32°
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My wife Christine on a nice, well bolted 5.6-7ish ...


WARNING: These routes are almost precisely 30 meters and can be climbed with a 60 meter rope, but TIE A STOPPER KNOT and mind your positioning (stand close to the wall) as you lower the climber to the ground as a precaution so as to not run the end of the rope through the belay device!

The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle.

You find Village Wall as you approach the larger "main crag." Sunny on the rock and shaded by trees at the base. Routes start vertical but with juggy holds, continue at a low angle (that is uncompromisingly well protected), and usually end high on a vertical finish. There is a great beginner's multipitch here (Village People: 5.6 at the 1st pitch and 5.5 at the 2nd).

Getting There 

Look for cairns Left of the trail immediately after the Castle Gates (less than 20 feet). This trail will take you down to the main approach trail at the base of Castle Rock; follow the cairns down through the East Gully. At the base of the East Gully you will meet the main climbing area trail where you turn Right. Continue along this trail to the main crag where you will find Village Wall.

Climbing Season

For the Castle Rock area.

Weather station 1.4 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Village Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Village Wall:
Village Idiot   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Village People   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   
Bridge Tender   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Pillage the Village   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Village Wall

Featured Route For Village Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: My wife Christine on a nice, well bolted 5.6-7ish ...

Village People 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Nevada : Lake Tahoe : ... : Village Wall
Be careful of rope snag while descending this route. See below.Vertical start with good holds (5.6 or 5.7). Then about 10' run out of 5.5 to mussy hooks for anchors. Good idea to establish name use when calling "take" if you have neighboring climbers here to avoid confusion and possibly a fall.It's convenient for the next leader to start at the Left side of the first anchor. Follow bolts up low angle and somewhat dirty ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

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