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Village of Oak Creek

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Bell Rock / Courthouse Butte 
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Village of Oak Creek Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 4,500'
Location: 34.7853, -111.7631 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,297
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jan 16, 2012
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Oak Creek Spire from the west.

Description 

The Village of Oak Creek lay just south of Sedona proper, and is home to such impressive formations as Courthouse Butte, and Oak Creek Spire just to name a few. Classics include Oak Creek Spires' North Face 5.9+, Coyote Tower 5.10+, and The Prosecutor 5.11-. Though there is not a lot listed here, there is a ton of exploring to be done, especially around Oak Creek Spire.

Getting There 

From the "Y" of 89A and 179 drive south on 179 until you reach the Village of Oak Creek. The GPS Coordinates are for the Village.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.6 miles from here

23 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Village of Oak Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Village of Oak Creek:
South Bowl Route (Right)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 1500'   Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : Courthouse Butte
North Face/West Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Oak Creek Spire Area : Oak Creek Spire
Mrs. Robinson   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Castle Rock - South Tower
Coyote Tower   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 400'   Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : Courthouse Butte
Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : Courthouse Butte
The Prosecutor   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : Courthouse Butte
Winter Sun   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 350'   Oak Creek Spire Area : Winter Sun Wall
Justice of the Peace   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 550'   Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : Courthouse Butte
Poquito Bandito   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 65'   Oak Creek Spire Area : Oak Creek Spire
Beast Master   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 135'   Oak Creek Spire Area : Oak Creek Spire
Saxon Justice   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Oak Creek Spire Area : Tempeh Wall
"Southern Revival" South Face of Oak Creek Spire   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 6 pitches, 560'   Oak Creek Spire Area : Oak Creek Spire
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Village of Oak Creek

Featured Route For Village of Oak Creek
Rock Climbing Photo: The second pitch of Oak Creek Spire in Sedona.  Ph...

North Face/West Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Arizona : Sedona Area : ... : Oak Creek Spire
Oak Creek Spire is a classic double-summited Sedona spire with a rabbit-ears profile. This tower tends to have a lot more loose rock than other towers in Sedona, so a little extra caution is advised. The highlight of climbing OCS is the (in)famous "jump move" on the lead of the third pitch, where you have to leap across a gap between the spire's ears to a small stance on the far side. Exciting stuff!For the North Face-West Crack, start on the North side in a right-facing corner (see pictures).P1...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

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