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Village Wall
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Village Idiot 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Todd Offenbacher, Zach Fleicher
Page Views: 177
Submitted By: Refuge Jared on Sep 11, 2016

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Description 

WARNING: This route is just long enough to lower your partner with a 60 meter rope. Mind your positioning as belayer (stand close to the wall) and TIE A STOPPER KNOT to avoid the end of the rope slipping through the belay device and dropping your partner as they lower near the bottom.

The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle.

Easiest climb on this wall. Starts vertical but miraculously juggy. Transitions to a somewhat dirty 5.5 "hike," then comes up a more interesting, generously protected face climb. Stay on the face, follow the bolt line, and look for your next move for a fun and easy line; straying Left at the crux provides an easier, less exciting variation to the finish. Lower off.

Location 

There are two routes on the immediately accessible section of Village Wall. This is the route on the climber's Right.

Protection 

Nicely protected. 10 bolts. Mussy hooks at the anchor.


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By rudache
Nov 14, 2016

this is a cool new area that we have been looking @for many years & were always stymied by lack of pro.now thats all changed thanx to todd & friends & his willingness to bolt easy lines. the rock is not like "clarks canyon" but the amount of holds is.the climbs are all well bolted, so even new leaders don't feel threatened.Now all we need is a trail that goes from the bottom of "school rock" around to the intersection of the tahoe rim trail & the trail that goes to the top of castle.(okay so i'm a dreamer) thanx todd! rudy von schlepp
By David Pratt
Jun 25, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Pretty sure was on this route but counted 13 bolts. Nice, steep juggy start, then into low angle stretch just past the pine boughs, then again nice steep sequence-y finish at the top where staying left of the bolt line is where the golden holds are found. Beautifully protected.

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