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Village Idiot 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Lanz, , Larry Floyd 1987 or 1989
Page Views: 1,958
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Landy getting it.


Better be strong at the grade; it's stiff, bouldery 11b on sharp pockets right off the ground. Hard climbing to the first bolt and a little bold to the second. It eases off a bit up to a roof which you pull via a good edge and a long throw - try not to stem on the left.

Per Andrew Iltis: The crux is right off the ground moving through some bad pockets to a monster jug. As with most of these routes, the crux is height-dependent and will be much harder for anyone who cannot bypass the smaller holds through the first crux...or reach the good holds over the finishing roof. In the great words of Bruce Hornsby, "That's just the way it is." -really fun, interesting climbing, and possibly good onsight potential.

Eds. Note: this is a combination of 2 submissions into 1 for organization purposes.


Bolts to chains.


Per Andrew Iltis: Start at the 8 1/2 foot high bolt in the dark, pocketed rock left of Karma Mechanic.

Photos of Village Idiot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Amato cranking the roof.
Mike Amato cranking the roof.

Comments on Village Idiot Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 12, 2017
By Kreighton Bieger
Jan 1, 2001

One route left of Karma Mechanic. Identified by a high first bolt and a roof up higher.
By Steve Merschel
Jan 1, 2001

Steve Merschel - My favorite route on the trip. The start is bouldery as hell and the sharp edges on the first few pockets define pain. Bring tape if you e a Nancy like me. Whew! This route is awesome! The mini-roof at the end is also fun. You get on this edge and then throw for this huge ledge (watch out, its pretty sharp too). A great place to spend a day. We found a lot of great routes around this area and were running 3 ropes all day long.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 30, 2002

New first bolt added 2/2002.
By Michael Amato
Oct 14, 2003

I found the crux to be off the ground past (new) first bolt to second - rest up beneath the roof and climb straight up on solid holds.
By Michael Amato
Oct 15, 2003

I didn't use that stem, I swear I didn't! I just had to check it out to see why everyone else was using it. And I can tell you, it goes just fine straight up! Thanks for the photo Ron!
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 9, 2005

Paul Lanz not Kevin Mcglaughlin did the FFA of this route.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 9, 2005

Just some brief history on "the village idiot". This route was originally partially equiped by an ex C-springs local. The individual abandoned the project, Paul Lanz finished bolting it and then led it. Obviously, the name is aimed at its original would be first ascentionist....
By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 4, 2007

Depending on how you approach this climb, I think that surmounting the roof is another crux. If you use the wall to the left, then the roof will be a little easier....if you huck for the large, positive ledge above the roof and high step to the lower ledge, then this portion will be harder.
By Ken Cangi
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Sep 8, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This was my first Shelf Road route. Not a bad route, but would be better if it weren't so close to the corner.
By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Jan 14, 2009

This climb is not height dependent unless your pushing 7-ft. I'm 6'3" and still found the start reachy as hell with nothing but smears for feet. No matter how tall you are I think the start is just as hard for just about anyone since there are several options for the start. None of the holds felt better than the others until you finally clip the 2nd bolt.
By Noah G
From: Alma, Co
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A favorite. Climbs slightly harder, though better quality, on a plumb line through the slab bolts all the way to the roof instead of stepping right.
By richard magill
Jan 23, 2012

Pretty darn fun.
By Chrissy Crushes
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

For someone who is 5' 5"...I did the crux at the bottom first try but found the roof super reachy and challenging.
By SammyJ
From: Colorado springs
Dec 5, 2016

Good route, but beware of the choss on the right side of the boltline midway up. There is a lot of chalk on those hallow sketchy flakes.
By Parker Wrozek
From: Denver, CO
Mar 12, 2017

I enjoyed this one. The crux for me was the roof. The bottom has an additional bolt, so you feel really safe, the moves are not hard, and the feet are pretty good. The route is really fun and stays more sustained in the 11a range if you keep left/on the bolt line from bolt 3 to the roof. Most people follow the big holds and chalk to the right though it seems.

4 of us climbed the route. 3 people 5'8" and 1 6'4". All the short people had to cut feet dyno at the roof vs. a big but static move for the tall guy.

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