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Vigilante Justice 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Sam Trautman & Rachael Lynn
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: Sarah Meiser on Jun 18, 2017

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Vigilante Justice is an aesthetic wide crack in a gradually widening chimney. An ascent can be made harder or easier depending on how much stemming is done versus the use of offwidth techniques in the crack itself.

Location 

This route is deep in the Hallway. Enter at The Convict, and follow the Hallway to where it takes a 90 degree turn to the right. Proceed through the tight slot, and then take the first left into another corridor that is too narrow to reach the bottom of. Chimney though it above the floor where it is wide enough to fit in, and when it opens up enough to stand in comfortably, you'll see a striking #6 crack in the right wall.

Another way to access the start of this route is to climb Sweet Nothings or Turd Launcher in Corridor 1 and then rappel directly into the Hallway, landing just an easy 5 second stroll from the base of the route. The Sweet Nothings anchor is slightly more convenient for this purpose. The Orenczak/Lynn guide recommends approaching via Turd Launcher, but if I were to do it again, I'd opt for the Hallway adventure.

Protection 

Big cams (or Big Bros) are the only game in town. A single BD #6 and one or two BD #5s work well. There is a bolted anchor at the top.


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By Patrik
Jun 20, 2017

Don't let the grade (5.9) and gear (#5 to #6) scare you. If you stem this, it is more of a well-protected 5.6 chimney. Practicing wide crack technique is entirely optional. If you take the "Hallway" approach, the approach might be as hard as the climb itself.

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