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Upper Darth Vadar
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Victim of Love S 

Victim of Love 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Esmond 1995
Page Views: 336
Submitted By: Ladd on May 2, 2007

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Kirsten catching a rest on her first outdoor lead....


This line was started by Joe McLoughlin, but he had to abandon it to attend to romantic responsibilities, leaving it to Ed to finish, hence the name. Climb up ledges that provide weird mantel-ish moves. Grab some decent face holds. Continue up face to anchors using some horizontal cracks and face holds. Note- there are a couple well chocked in blocks that moves if you grab them. You don't need to use them and they have been like that for 20 years - no need to chalk them up with 'X's or break them up. Good practice for rocky and unstable relationships!

Good climb to warm up on if you want to do Three easy pieces and/or squall. Just remember to do more than one lap!


Route right in front of you when you walk up on trail. Kind of looks like super blunt arete.


Bolts to anchors

Photos of Victim of Love Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Really enjoyed this climb! The move past the secon...
Really enjoyed this climb! The move past the secon...

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By Devin Krevetski
From: Northfield, VT
Sep 18, 2010

The upper part reminded me of the Gunks, except for the bolts, and the loose rock.
By A.Javi.Gecko
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

I climbed this route as a warm down this past weekend and found myself stressing out (and thus NOT warming down) the entire climb. In my opinion, THIS ROUTE IS NOT SAFE TO CLIMB. While a couple routes at lower Darth Vadar have SOME loose rocks, the top half of this route is VERY CHOSSY with several fist to microwave-sized blocks that are just waiting for someone to pull them down as well as an unavoidable torso-sized flake that wiggles while you hold onto it to clip the 4th(?) bolt. Victim of Love is situated between a popular 5.6 and a 5.7 and I see no reason to risk the safety of yourself, your partner and adjacent climbers simply because you'd rather climb a 5.8 than a slightly-easier route (like I unknowingly did). Ideally I'd like to see this route decommissioned to save climbers from confusion in the future.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 10, 2012

i havent been on it in a couple years any one else have recent experience on this thing? the only route ive done up there this year was Danger 5.10a X and that seemed safer than this description haha...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I climbed this route about a month ago and it was not near as bad as that comment suggests. This route for the last three or so years has had some lose blocks on it but nothing like that comment. The blocks that have been there have been loose for a few years without coming out and are all well marked with a "X". If someone is willing to check it out and remove some of the loose blocks that would be much appreciated. None of the blocks are must use holds, I climbed the route easily while avoiding them...
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Oct 13, 2012

I climbed the route today. There are two scary loose blocks marked with X between the 3rd and 4th bolts, but it turns out they are cammed in place pretty tight (as in, I tried and failed to pull them out). I did not find the wiggly flake at the 4th bolt, but be careful.
By A.Javi.Gecko
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

Glad to hear some folks went to check it out and that the moving blocks don't appear to be falling anytime soon. I certainly overreacted but luckily multiple people went to make sure as there's no other way to find out and I wasn't exactly raring to test the route again.
By S. Neoh
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

We did this route today even though it was pretty wet down low. The moves are not enjoyable but I would say it is far from being unsafe. One does not have to touch the "X" block at all. Stiff and awkward for sure for an .8. I do not think I will climb this one ever again.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Sep 15, 2015

Lee, this route is far safer than Danger (which felt reasonably safe as long as you don't fall). I was on it this year, and yes things wiggle; but no, I don't think it is going to kill any even lightly seasoned climber. Probably not good to do with others groups around. I think the major issue with this route is just that it climbs like shit.
By ed esmond
Sep 15, 2015

i don't usually comment on comments; but…

i re-climbed that route just the other day.

the block with the "x" on it has been just as loose as it was the first day i rapped down it in 1995. the fact that it hasn't fallen out in 20 years of 5.8 gumbies yarding on it, might tell you something about how "chossy" this route really is ….

i worked on the "x" block for a long time before deciding the only way it was coming out was if i smashed it into a bunch of small pieces that could be dug out. i didn't think that was a good idea. apparently, others (with less actual knowledge,) disagree…


obviously, it's smart to be careful and observant, but is it really smart to speak with authority when you have no real understanding of a situation?

and if you think "it climbs like shit," well, people tend to dislike things that challenge them…


ed e

ps. "microwave-sized block???" must be a "micro- microwave…"
By Ryan Loiselle
From: Pepperell, MA
Jun 13, 2016

Climbed for the first time yesterday and really enjoyed it. The move past the first bolt and the second bolt was tricky for me. After getting above the second bolt, I thought the rest of the climb went fairly easy. I would go back and climb this again for sure!

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