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Vicious Rumors 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: ?
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Submitted By: claramie on Nov 22, 2015

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  • Description 

    This mixed route is pretty fun climbing, but it's squeezed in there and only has a 1 ring bolt anchor.

    It is immediately left of The Ticket. Start up the easy dihedral at the base of The Ticket angling left (same as Saturday Treat), placing a few pieces, then cut right and climb the 3 bolt vertical wall.

    At the ledge, step right and clip the pin (or a bolt on The Ticket with a sling). Then work your way up left on the ramp. The route is really close to The Ticket here, and I was a little confused, so I clipped two bolts on The Ticket, but I think you're supposed to just climb left up the easy ramp and place a piece along the way. Then step right to clip a bolt, and climb through the bulge with a crack in the middle and another on the right side (cool moves) to another ledge.

    Climb up the face past another bolt to the single ring bolt anchor. I climbed straight up past the anchor where you can place a #2 and/or #3 with a sling as a directional, and traverse straight right and down to the anchors on The Ticket, or left and down to some other anchors. I went to The Ticket.


    It is immediately left of The Ticket. Start in the same spot (also the same as Saturday Treat). This shares a few moves with The Ticket mid-way up.


    This is a mixed gear & bolt line. The guidebook says to protect with 6 bolts and gear to 3 inches. Take a few extra draws and a long sling or two. A single set of cams green Alien to #3 was sufficient.

    The anchor is 1 ring bolt. I climbed above, placed a #3 on a sling, and traversed right to The Ticket. It would be better with a second bolt at the anchor.

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