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Viaduc des Fauvettes

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Viaduc des Fauvettes Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 398'
Location: 48.67892, 2.15267 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 364
Administrators: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Lance Galletti on Nov 9, 2015
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Description 

This man-made, 12-arch bridge is perfect if you are staying near Paris and want to spend a day climbing without having to get up early or make too many preparations.

A lot of climbs under the arches stay dry under rain so you can climb here all year long. It gets decent traffic on the weekends - especially by groups of children who come here on field trips because there are a lot of easy climbs. They mostly stay to the extremities of the bridge where the easier climbs are. So if you climb 5b or above you shouldn't be waiting in line to climb.

Most of the climbs are vertical/slab and are no harder than 7b. There are a few climbs that go into the overhanging part of the arch but either stop fairly soon or continue around the corner so you end on vertical/slab. As you get closer to the center of the bridge the climbs get longer (some of them will require an 70m rope) but for the most part a 60m rope will do.

The rocks is very adhesive and sometimes sharp. You'll find that most of the holds are pockets, crimps, or jugs. The climbs are overall very consistent and sustained, and the names of the routes are written on the rock.

Route Name - Grade - Pillar n*
  • A toi l'horreur - 6a - 3
  • Abrasive Stone - 7a - 4
  • Absinthe - 7a - 3
  • Affreux, sale et mechant - 5c+ - 3
  • Amuse-toi - 5b - 11
  • Amuse-toit - 6a+ - 11
  • Asturias - 7a+ - 4
  • Au niveau - 4c+ - 1
  • Bambino - 4c+ - 2
  • Berlioz - 6c - 6
  • Big love - 5c+ - 4
  • Bout de paradis - 6b - 8
  • Carpe diem - 5b+ - 3
  • Castafiore - 6b - 5
  • Champagne envoutant - 6c+ - 3
  • Chemin des dieux - 6c - 7
  • Children's corner - 5b+ - 1
  • Chlorophylle - 5b - 7
  • Cognes toi, toi-meme - 6a - 11
  • Concerto a la m. d'un ange - 6a - 4
  • Coriolan - 6c - 5
  • Coyote - 6a+ - 2
  • Crescendo - 6a+ - 4
  • Damnation de Faust - 6a - 6
  • Desmaison - 6b+ - 8
  • Dis-moi tue - 6c - 4
  • Doigts de fee - 6b+ - 11
  • Du vecu - 4c - 1
  • El condor - 6b - 11
  • El Neve - 6a+ - 10
  • En route pour le 7 - 6c - 2
  • Epipurien - 6a+ - 9
  • Eve reste - 4c - 2
  • face de bouc - 6a+ - 4
  • Fantastique - 6a - 6
  • Felicite - 6b - 3
  • Felon frelons - 6a+ - 7
  • Fi - 4a - 11
  • Fil a plomb - 5c+ (L2: 6a+) - 1
  • Garagai - 6a - 10
  • Genepy - 6c - 3
  • Genius Loci - 6b - 9
  • Gloria - 6b+ - 5
  • Guepes a pan - 6b - 8
  • Gymnopedies - 6c - 5
  • Haut de hurle doigt - 6c - 3
  • Interpellation - 4c+ - 1
  • Issue de secours - 5b+ - 8
  • Jackinou - 5a - 10
  • Jardin suspendu - 6b - 2
  • Jeffouille - 6b - 8
  • JLC - 5c - 10
  • John attend - 6b - 3
  • L'ocean des sagesses - 5c - 1
  • L'abeille hard - 6b - 6
  • L'apprenti sorcier - 6b - 5
  • L'ego - 5b+ - 3
  • L'oiseau de feu - 7a+ - 6
  • La classique - 6b+ - 5
  • La croisee - 6a - 9
  • La folie des grandeurs - 5c+ - 9
  • La Grande Vadrouille - 6b - 6
  • La mule erre - 6a - 10
  • La neuvieme - 7b - 5
  • La sans nom - 7a+ - 2
  • La Trache - 6b+ - 9
  • La voie de l'arbre - 6b+ - 1
  • La walkyrie - 6b+ - 5
  • Laisse Beethoven - 6a+ - 5
  • Le beret Fi Basque - 5a - 8
  • Le passage au roi - 5b - 9
  • Le vol du boudron - 6b - 6
  • Les baquets verts - 6b+ - 9
  • Mac alu - 5a - 2
  • Macnos - 3b - 11
  • Marteau sans maitres - 5c - 1
  • Metastasis - 7b - 1
  • Michel Ange - 6c+ - 4
  • Mister Spoke - 5a - 8
  • Morphologie - 6a+ - 7
  • Mur du sale athee - 6a+ - 3
  • Nain jaune - 5c - 7
  • Nana purna - 4c+ - 2
  • Nettoyage par le vide - 6c+ - 6
  • Nicolas - 5c+ - 9
  • Norma - 5b+ - 2
  • Nuit transfiguree - 5c - 2
  • Oppus cent - 7a - 5
  • Origami - 6b+ - 1
  • Para Bellum - 6c - 8
  • Parcours de sante - 5b+ - 10
  • Passage aux mines - 5b+ - 10
  • Patatras - 6a - 4
  • Pere vert pepere - 6b+ - 4
  • Permeable a l'humidite - 6b - 7
  • Petit Prince - 3c - 11
  • Pie verte - 6c - 10
  • Pierrot lunaire - 6a+ - 2
  • Pince mi, pince moi - 6a - 7
  • Pile selon pile - 6b - 1
  • Predateur - 6b+ - 8
  • Protection rapprochee - 6a+ - 10
  • Ring - 6b - 1
  • Robin de toits - 6b - 10
  • Rock des petits cailloux - 6a - 4
  • Sang pour sang - 6c - 11
  • Schimmentouk - 6a - 10
  • Surprise sur prises - 5c+ (L2: 6a+) - 10
  • Taupinette - 5c - 10
  • Tonton flingueur - 6c+ - 4
  • Travaux d'Herluc - 5b - 7
  • Ty boon - 6b - 8
  • Variante Sante - 6a - 10
  • Very good trip - 6c - 7
  • Voie de son maitre - 6c+ - 7
  • Yannou - 6c - 3
  • Yvasy - 5b - 9

Getting There 

Only about an hour away from Paris, this area is accessible by car or by train (RER B). Choosing the former means taking the "Chemin de la Justice" - a small road off the "Route de Chartres" (D988) - leading you to parking along a hay field. From there the walk to the bridge is obvious as you can see it from across the field. Choosing the latter means getting off at the "Bures-sur-Yvettes" stop on the RER and walking about 20-30 minutes. You can either walk along the D988 the whole way there (then taking a left on "chemin de la justice") or take a left at the first roundabout on the D988, walk up the road (stay on the right sidewalk) and take a right after 5min or so into the forest. Follow the path (moving SW), go under the tunnel and you will arrive on top of the bridge!

Climbing Season

For the France area.

Weather station 11.6 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Viaduc des Fauvettes
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleaning anchors atop the route.

Devécu 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Europe : France : ... : Viaduc des Fauvettes
A good starting route for first-timers to the crag. Will give you a feel for the texture of the routes.Slightly overhung....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Viaduc des Fauvettes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the anchors on top of Pilier 6 (34m).
At the anchors on top of Pilier 6 (34m).

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