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Lastoni di Formin
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Evergreen S 
Love my Dogs (Spiz de Mondeval formation) S 
Nikibi (Torrione Marcella formation) S 
North West Buttress  T 
Re Artu (Spiz de Mondeval formation) S 
Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation ) T 

Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation ) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: M. Dibona, A. Nascé (2001)
Page Views: 464
Submitted By: Jan-Thijs Menger on Aug 18, 2013

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Torrione Marcella, different viewing angle.

Description 

Beautiful climbing in bomber rock. Really exposed climbing. Easy start with sustained 5.7/5.8 climbing in the pitches. Technical (but good protected) cruxes in p 6/7.

Location 

Approach: From Cortina d'Ampezzo, drivo to the paso di Giau-road. Park at the 6km mark. Walk into the field while keeping to the left until you find a trail which leads you to the gully. Follow the trail to the base of the westface.

Descend: Follow the cairns to the east (some easy downclimbing) until you find a trail. Follow this trail and descend through the scree-gully (to the north of the route).

Protection 

Standard rack + slings. Fixed anchors. Some 4 pitons per pitch.


Photos of Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation ) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Merrill displays some strength on top of the Paulo...
Merrill displays some strength on top of the Paulo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route summary
BETA PHOTO: Route summary

Comments on Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation ) Add Comment
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By Tim Wolfe
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 9, 2014

It can be a bit confusing with all the names so if you are looking for this (Torrione Marcella peak) it is a sub-peak of the Lastoni di Formin formation - the left hand aspect of that large plateaus West Face. Many maps will not list this sub peak name but should have Croda da Lago (ridge just behind it to the East) and Lastoni di Formin formation written on them. Right next to this route (Paolo Amedeo)is a bolted route - the first 50 meters only have 2 bolts but the rest is well bolted. Be aware this other route (Nikibi) is 6b+ - about 5.11a - so if you are looking for the 5.8 it is traditional and to the right of the bolted line.

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