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> Torre Grande W Summit
Via Olga --Nordwest Verschneidung ( N.W. Dihedral)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 7
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Routes in Torre Grande West Summit
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Armida T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Fra Fra S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Mimosa S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rosamunda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slabs left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thomas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Via delle Guide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Via Olga --Nordwest Verschneidung ( N.W. Dihedral) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zebra Zabra S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | E. Lacedelli & R. Zardini |
| Page Views: | 1,642 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Rodger Raubach on Mar 8, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
The route is pretty obvious; it starts at the base of a very steep left facing open book. Climb it. The first lead is very technically difficult and continuous; solid 5.7+/5.8 climbing. Belay at a fixed double piton anchor. Continue up difficult crack climbing and stemming, 5.8+/5.9, to a notch . The climbing then eases for a pitch and intersects Via delle Guide a pitch below the summit. Overall, a steep and continuous route.
Descent: On the summit, locate a rappel anchor on the northern end. A 20m rappel brings you to a ledge. Traverse left for about 5 m to locate a second rappel anchor. Another 20m rappel brings you to the top of a gully. Start descending the gully climber's right. After 10m, you can either scramble down a "tunnel" with fixed iron spikes, or you can do a final rappel from fixed gear.
Descent: On the summit, locate a rappel anchor on the northern end. A 20m rappel brings you to a ledge. Traverse left for about 5 m to locate a second rappel anchor. Another 20m rappel brings you to the top of a gully. Start descending the gully climber's right. After 10m, you can either scramble down a "tunnel" with fixed iron spikes, or you can do a final rappel from fixed gear.
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