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Torre Quarta Alta
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L to R R to L Alpha
Il Dau delle nevi S 
Tinsemal S 
Via Normale T 
Unsorted Routes:

Via Normale 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: A. Dimai and A. Girardi, 1911
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Sep 7, 2014

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Summit photo 9/7/2014.

Description 

The first 2 pitches are identical with the Normal route on Torre Quarta Bassa. A rather wide step-across is needed to reach to wall across the notch from the ring anchor, and steep climbing on good holds follows. Move right initially, and then follow the line of a couple old pitons and cemented rings on up to an archaic cemented in twisted rod anchor. To this point, UIAA Gr. IV, and 5.5 YDS. The fourth land final lead climbs to a good piton at a difficult short corner, described in the Bernari guidebook as a "chimney," and it is for a move or two; UIAA Gr. IV+, YDS 5.6/5.7. stay towards the right skyline and top out to a spacious and grassy summit. Abseil the route to the notch (2 abseils), and a long abseil into the hole between the 2 towers puts one back on terra firma.

Location 

The first 2 pitches are congruent with Torre Quarta Bassa, via Normale. The Quarta Alta route begins at the point where the 2 towers touch. A big cemented ring anchor on Torre Quarta bassa is the start.

Protection 

Entirely fixed gear, including rappel/belay anchors. A light rack and a handful of quickdraws is useful.


Photos of Via Normale Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the second pitch of Torre Quarta Bassa; ...
Finishing the second pitch of Torre Quarta Bassa; ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Normale Route is shown in yellow.
BETA PHOTO: The Normale Route is shown in yellow.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rodger, chugging along to the start of Quarta Alta...
Rodger, chugging along to the start of Quarta Alta...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rodger, enjoying the summit and views.
Rodger, enjoying the summit and views.
Rock Climbing Photo: Torre Quarta Alta is the rectangular formationa ab...
Torre Quarta Alta is the rectangular formationa ab...

Comments on Via Normale Add Comment
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By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2014

The route has one slightly harder section near the start of p.2. It's well protected by a good piton. I rated the moves at 5.6/5.7, or UIAA Gr. IV+. The Bernardi guidebook shows this as a short "chimney," but it's more of a tight right facing corner.

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