A great line, with good position and nifty, exposed moves up high, Via Normale on the Torre Inglese is a short, not-to-be-missed classic.
Begin by climbing the steep chimney at the junction between the east and inboard south face of the tower. Climb to the top of the chimney weakness to a belay atop where the blocky formation rolls over to a flat stance. 5.6 30m.
Traverse on thin but amazing holds up and across the steep, exposed face to the left and up to the Southeast corner of the tower. Climb up and then, near the top, step to the right to a belay anchor. 5.6 25m
Route is located on the south east aspect of the formation.
Start is at the obvious chimney in the main corner crack on the left side of the south facing blocky formation which leans against the east face, interrupting what would be a smooth east face.
There are also several options to start to the right to begin this climb. The original route apparently climbed the weakness/crack system to the right between the main formation and the shorter tower to the northeast.
Descent: traverse from the first belay, staying on the east side of the tower, across exposed terrain to a set of rappel anchors to the north. A 50m rappel reaches the ground. There is also a mid anchor below which would support a 30m (?) rappel to the ground if a single 60m rope is used.
The route is mostly fixed.
Supplemental protection in the form of a few nuts and small to medium sized cams would be prudent for folks not solid on the grade.
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Via Normale on Torre Inglese in the...
Unknown group of climbers on Torre Inglesi, from T...
On the knife edge arête leading to the summit.
Rodger traversing on pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Approximate route sketch, via Normale on Torre Ing...
A solitary climber stands at the base of the chimn...
Climbers on Torre Inglese, seen from Torre Lusy; n...
BETA PHOTO: Rappel anchor at the end of the traverse to the no...
Coming up the exposed second pitch of Via Normale ...
By Angie C
From: Seattle, Wa
Oct 4, 2013
On the 2nd pitch, don't traverse right too early.
Descent beta: after you hit the summit, note that if you traverse to the right, there are rap rings. We did it in 2 raps with a 70m rope.
By Rodger Raubach
Aug 28, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I enjoyed this climb, but the time-worn first pitch is as greasy and smooth as can be imagined. My rating of 2 stars was a downgrade from the final, exposed ascending traverse to an exciting summit, which was definitely worth 3 stars as a stand alone. It is reasonably well protected by cemented in pitons and large eyebolts. If climbing this with a beginner, definitely take a 60 or 70 meter rope in case of a fall on pitch 2; then lowering to the ground is an option.