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Routes in Torre Inglese
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"SE Arete" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Via Normale T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Menardi, Majoni and Wyatt 1901 |
| Page Views: | 2,114 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Nov 2, 2010 |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
A great line, with good position and nifty, exposed moves up high, Via Normale on the Torre Inglese is a short, not-to-be-missed classic.
Begin by climbing the steep chimney at the junction between the east and inboard south face of the tower. Climb to the top of the chimney weakness to a belay atop where the blocky formation rolls over to a flat stance. 5.6 30m.
Traverse on thin but amazing holds up and across the steep, exposed face to the left and up to the Southeast corner of the tower. Climb up and then, near the top, step to the right to a belay anchor. 5.6 25m
Begin by climbing the steep chimney at the junction between the east and inboard south face of the tower. Climb to the top of the chimney weakness to a belay atop where the blocky formation rolls over to a flat stance. 5.6 30m.
Traverse on thin but amazing holds up and across the steep, exposed face to the left and up to the Southeast corner of the tower. Climb up and then, near the top, step to the right to a belay anchor. 5.6 25m
Location
Route is located on the south east aspect of the formation.
Start is at the obvious chimney in the main corner crack on the left side of the south facing blocky formation which leans against the east face, interrupting what would be a smooth east face.
There are also several options to start to the right to begin this climb. The original route apparently climbed the weakness/crack system to the right between the main formation and the shorter tower to the northeast.
Descent: traverse from the first belay, staying on the east side of the tower, across exposed terrain to a set of rappel anchors to the north. A 50m rappel reaches the ground. There is also a mid anchor below which would support a 30m (?) rappel to the ground if a single 60m rope is used.
Start is at the obvious chimney in the main corner crack on the left side of the south facing blocky formation which leans against the east face, interrupting what would be a smooth east face.
There are also several options to start to the right to begin this climb. The original route apparently climbed the weakness/crack system to the right between the main formation and the shorter tower to the northeast.
Descent: traverse from the first belay, staying on the east side of the tower, across exposed terrain to a set of rappel anchors to the north. A 50m rappel reaches the ground. There is also a mid anchor below which would support a 30m (?) rappel to the ground if a single 60m rope is used.
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