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Via Normale (Northeast Wall) T 
West Chimney T 

Via Normale (Northeast Wall) 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Dry weather
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Aug 9, 2013

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Fun abseils from an otherwise average summit.


This is suitable for a beginner's first climb, and takes little time to complete and descend. The route has several sections of roped scrambling, and follows a crack to the first belay with a slung "hourglass" thread for protection along the way. The second lead is scrambling and very easy 5th class, which ends at another thread for a belay. The final pitch is 5.2-5.3 which is the best one of the climb and involves a bit of stemming in a dihedral.

Two 60 foot rappels are required to descend from the SW edge of the tower. Both are overhanging, free rappels. Two 60 meter ropes would make this a breeze to descend.


This route is the first encountered from the path described in the approach to the tower from the Scoiattoli Hut. It begins near the right side, viewed from the NW.


Mostly natural protection, and longer slings are necessary. A light rack is advisable, though.

Photos of Via Normale (Northeast Wall) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the Normal Route; broken terrain that...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the Normal Route; broken terrain that...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit "selfie;" drunkfox and Rodger
Summit "selfie;" drunkfox and Rodger

Comments on Via Normale (Northeast Wall) Add Comment
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By Rodger Raubach
Sep 10, 2013

Additional commentary. This is a really fun route with a couple of very exciting rappels from a tree near the S. edge of the West face. Although the "Dolomite standard" rope is 50 meters, a 60 meter rope makes many of the descents less tricky in reaching subsequent rappel anchors.
By Rodger Raubach
Aug 28, 2014

This is an excellent "family" climb for those with inexperienced beginners and smaller children Care must be taken on the described rappels, and descent of the face climbed is a safer alternative. I repeated this one in my Boulder-X approach shoes, and still found it very easy.
By Andrew G
From: Silver Spring, MD
Sep 14, 2017
rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

This felt a lot more like scrambling than climbing to me, thought the fall consequences warrant 5th class. Not interesting from a climbing perspective, but an easy romp to gain a tower summit!

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