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Via del Drago 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 377
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 5, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Chester crushing it Photo by Huang Liting

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  • Description 

    Pitch 1 - Climb through some choss and over grassy steps to a set of parallel dihedrals. Climb these (5.8) up to the ledge. Beware of loose rock along the way. Belay on gear at the ledge.

    Alternatively, climb the first pitch of Yellow Jasmine Beauty, belay at the ledge, then do a short traverse right to the VdD belay ledge.

    Pitch 2 - Start up the steep crack on fists and thrutches. The crack is flared inward, so it can be tricky to protect. Getting into the pod is the first crux. You can get a good rest here before you chimney out the right side. Pull yourself out of the overhang on arm jams, gastons, or any other kind of awkward maneuvering you can come up with. Once through this last bit of off-width, cruise overhanging but easier jams and face holds to an amazing belay perch. Belay on gear.

    Descend - Forge upwards to the cape trail and descend via School Gate or Golden Valley; OR descend a faint trail back down to the base of the climb - there is one low 5th-class move.

    Location 

    From Music Hall, head right and up through the razor plants, gunning for the obvious crack at northeastern end of the auditorium.

    Protection 

    Gear to 4" - doubles in the bigger stuff


    Photos of Via del Drago Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: If not for the bolts and the sound of crashing wav...
    If not for the bolts and the sound of crashing wav...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Below the 1st pitch, the pod visible in top-left
    Below the 1st pitch, the pod visible in top-left
    Rock Climbing Photo: Huang Liting following the 2nd pitch
    Huang Liting following the 2nd pitch
    Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch and the left arete visible from Freedom ...
    1st pitch and the left arete visible from Freedom ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: shot from atop Commissary Crack
    BETA PHOTO: shot from atop Commissary Crack

    Comments on Via del Drago Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anmin Deng
    From: Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
    Sep 3, 2012

    The route of red solid line on the attached topo photo is not the route "Via del Drago". The route "Via del Drago" on the attached photo is on the right to the red solid line. It is an off width vertical crack on the slightly overhanging brighter color wall which faces to the right on the topo photo.
    By Nate Ball
    Administrator
    From: Portland, OR
    Sep 3, 2012

    Photo has been edited to remove the red line which incorrectly indicated the route.
    By Nate Ball
    Administrator
    From: Portland, OR
    Jul 8, 2013

    This route has expansion bolts at the top of the first and second pitch, but they probably won't be there for much longer. There are super-rusty hangers on them which should not be trusted. This is a trad route, and will probably remain so in the purest sense.

    Bring gear for anchors and walk-off.

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