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via ferrata by Torino
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VF Rocca Clari S 

VF Rocca Clari 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  Sport, 1600'
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
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Page Views: 18
Submitted By: kenr on Jul 10, 2017

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Description 

This is a "via ferrata" climbing route -- which means that it's protected by fixed steel cables. There's also lots of other fixed steel hardware (mostly rungs) intended to be used as aids for many of the climbing moves.

Possible option to try lots of interesting moves "free" with hands and feet directly on the rock -- mostly at a much higher difficulty than the main grade given for this route (which assumes extensive use of steel fixtures for Aid in climbing). Also a lower section with interesting rock situation (but climbing on rungs). Ranks with the best VFs in the Dolomites.
Has sometimes been given VF difficulty rating D or D+.

- Diagram of route linked from This page.

- GPX track linked from This page on c2c

climb: The via ferrata cable route starts (GPS latitude longitude approx N44.9436 E6.7641) up steep South with much on blunt tops of rock fins in dark gorge, aided by many steel rungs. Meet main hiking trail, up this perhaps a couple of switchbacks to around (N44.9428 E6.7642), then turn off trail Left and go E up diagonally with some cable sections, and more hiking to the bottom of the upper section (N44.9427 E6.7665). Longer than the lower sections, with much opportunity for "free" moves with hands and feet directly on the limestone rock (avoiding the many steel rungs and using the cable for protection not aid). Up through interesting rock situations, W then NW then N to reach the top of the via ferrata at (N44.9419 E6.7684).

return: Hike higher for about 450 meters first S then SW ... past some buildings to the high point of the day. Next 400 meters down, first SW soon meet forest road, through a couple curves, and S down to gentler slope. From here three options:

(a) continue S 200m down to meet wide gravel/dirt road at (N44.9345 E6.7648) - (some people reported they'd driven a 2WD normal-clearance passenger car up to here) - down the road 900m SW then NW (becomes asphalt) to reach bridge across main stream (N44.9388 E6.7524). Cross bridge and turn Right off road and walk 400m ENE to parking.

(b) Go to top of chairlift "La Coche" (short ways W) at (N44.9365 E6.7633), then down 250m roughly SW to meet wide dirt/gravel road. Turn R onto this and follow previous instructions.

(c) Go to top of chairlift "La Coche" (short ways W) at (N44.9365 E6.7633), then down 430m WNW very steep (not when wet) under chairlift cable overhead. Use open-grate steel bridge (N44.9382 E6.7576) to cross side creek. Hike 230m NW on grass to cross main stream. Turn R and walk 200m ENE to parking.

Location 

by Claviere, Italy ... just 2.5 km ENE down from Montgenevre France ... or WSW up from Cesana Torinese Italy. Just off the main road between Briancon France and Torino Italy. Turn-off for village of Claviere is well-marked.

Parking by trailhead is northeast below village -- large lot by cash office for "tibetan" footbridge, also roadside parking.
Parking trailhead GPS lat long approx (N44.9410 E6.7570)

Hiking approach:
Walk about 550 meters, first NE up past a chapel, then down generally ENE with many switchbacks, past another cable bridge, to reach a log crossing of a creek (N44.9430 E6.7627). SE across the creek, and turn Left onto trail and hike 100m first ESE then NE to bottom of Via Ferrata route (N44.9436 E6.7641)

Protection 

Protected by steel cable, with many cable-anchor connetion posts, and many many steel rungs. While quickdraws or slings/runners could be clipped to those fixed hardware points for climbing with a rope, normally instead most people climbing this route wear a special Via Ferrata kit, and do not bring quickdraws or a rope.


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