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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 6,848
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Mar 26, 2014  with updates from Brian in SLC

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Keith Ladzinski photo of Whitney Boland climbing V...


You've probably heard of this route. And for good reason. It's truly incredible.

To the left of the little cave, climb up some orange stone and around an arete onto a beautiful blue face and finish up and right to a 2 bolt anchor at a stance. Another option is to climb the pillar right of the cave via a newer route to a nice full on ledge. Both first pitch options are around 11+.

Launch from either belay onto the stunning blue headwall. Edge your way to the left side of the slash and follow it up and right through some harder terrain to a memorable runnel finish. Absolutely stellar climbing on world class stone.


To the left of the Grail on the obvious, tall, blue, right facing wall.


12 draws

Photos of Vesper Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo: Tyler casey
Photo: Tyler casey
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike and his wife Brittany on the classic second p...
Mike and his wife Brittany on the classic second p...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top
View from the top

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By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I have never been to France. With that said this is the best piece of stone I have ever had the privilege to climb on. The first pitch is worth the second pitch...DON'T MISS THIS CLIMB.......
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 17, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Pull some committing moves after the Hueco to a rewarding rest. The amazing slanting crack gets harder and harder as you climb up it till you get to the body position intensive crux at the lip. Amazing slopers, awesome crimps, and amazing position at the crux. Add the incredible stone and you have a super classic pitch of climbing! Only drawback is the hanging belay.
By SCherry
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 4, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Amazing and unreal pitch of climbing. As everyone says, the stone is superb, the moves engaging, fun and unique. Do this pitch!

After gathering as much beta as I could about the approach pitch here is my recommendation: Warm up first, then skip the harder 11+ options for pitches as they are just not that fun. Climb the 5.10a pitch (this is one route left of the 10d thats the left most route on the large blue/grey face) up to the Air France ledge on the right side of the gulley. Set up shop here on this comfy ledge, then clip 2 bolts and stem over to the left wall and climb Vesper.
By Cha Tate
From: Saint George, UT
May 27, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I have tried all the first pitch options (including off width up the right crack) and like the 11+ pitch (I would rate it 5.11a) right of the cave. Pull around the bulge and slither up some great stone with slab/stemming/jamming options, then up and right to the two bold anchor. Then pull stout moves after the first bolt to easier terrain leading to the traverse roof crux. Unbelievable movement on truly fine stone.
By Alan Collins
From: Bend, OR
Mar 26, 2016

Great route! The position, the moves, and the rock are really all 4/4 stars! Hard for 5.12b in the canyon, but a bit of sandbaggsy should be expected for a line of this quality. As you first approach the canyon, this line is the first to stand out.

Be ready for a heady lead in comparison to other lines in the area. The 5.11 pitch was on, only to be followed by a sandbagged pitch of 5.12b. Stoked to get a onsight!
By seanmo63
Apr 17, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

There is a sinker hand jam immediately above the crux and the supposedly pumpy water runnel streaks above the bulge are 5.10 fist crack with a little bit of creative footwork.
By Daniel Hatley
Jan 12, 2017

Climbed on 1/10/17 and there were no rap rings or chains at the anchor, just hangers. Did I miss something?

This is a stellar route! One of the best pitches I have ever had the pleasure of climbing on!

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