REI Community
Vesper Peak

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fish & Whistle T 
Ragged Edge T 
True Grit T 

Vesper Peak Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,214'
Location: 48.01293, -121.51801 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,419
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jennifer L on Oct 8, 2015
Forecast:
Tonight

32°
Wednesday

38° | 33°
Thursday

44° | 33°
Friday

45° | 35°
Saturday

48° | 38°
Sunday

51° | 41°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Description 

Located in a lake basin near Monte Cristo along the Mountain Loop Highway, Vesper Peak provides several technical climbing routes on its north side. The summit provides views of Glacier Peak, Mount Rainier, Sloan Peak, and Mount Stuart.

The rock, consisting of primarily intrusive quartz diorite, is fairly solid, although it may be covered in vegetation for the newer routes. As these routes get climbed more, there will be likely be less vegetation and loose rock.

As there are no permits necessary and Vesper Peak is also a popular scramble (on its southeast slope), you will likely be sharing the peak and routes with others.

Getting There 

Driving directions: From Granite Falls follow the Mountain Loop Highway east for 28 miles, turning right onto Sunrise Mine Road (Forest Road 4065) about 3 miles beyond (east of) the Big Four Picnic Area. Follow this gravel road for 2.3 miles to its terminus at the trailhead for Trail No. 707 (Sunrise Mine Trailhead, elev. 2400 ft).

Approach: Hike 3 miles to Headlee Pass, 4720'. From the pass, follow a trail around the south of Sperry Peak to the lake basin between Vesper and Sperry. From the lake basin, follow the hiking trail through the talus and heather until you reach a ledge at ~5760'. Traverse climbers right (northwest) on this ledge toward the col.

Elevation gain from trailhead to summit is 4115'. There are some nice campsites at the lake, although many people do this in a day.

Climbing Season

For the North Cascades area.

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Vesper Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Vesper Peak:
Ragged Edge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
True Grit   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 590'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Vesper Peak

Featured Route For Vesper Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo by Darin Berdinka

Ragged Edge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Washington : Northwest Region : ... : Vesper Peak
This is a nice, moderate route that follows the eastern "ragged" edge on the north face of Vesper.From the col, scramble/traverse a ledge system around to the north face.The route consists of 6 pitches (5.5-5.7), with the cruxes at P5 and possibly P3. The variation (shown in blue on the topo) on P1 and P2 is worth doing (if there's not a queue for it already).The following is copied from the first ascensionist's route description:Approach DescriptionThe trail fades out a...[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of Vesper Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Not a bad spot to eat lunch.
Not a bad spot to eat lunch.
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down the north face of Vesper Peak from th...
looking down the north face of Vesper Peak from th...

Comments on Vesper Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Benjamin Pontecorvo
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 14, 2017
I saw some rap rings and maybe a bolt or two to climbers left of true grit- anyone have beta on other routes on this face?

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About