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Very Inconvenient 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Deng-Rong Chang 7/03
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Nov 25, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Very Inconvenient topo

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Description 

BrianWS
This is the extension to Inconvenient, which adds a few bolts of climbing and a second set of anchors. Continue past the first anchor up the sustained, thin face. No moves in the V4 or 5.12 range, but there aren't any of the sinker horizontals or jugs for rests that appear throughout the lower portion of the route.

Realistically a mid to hard 5.11.

Location 

Just outside the Bikini Cave, on the east-facing orange wall. Climbs through the golden block and into the darker stuff above.

Protection 

316 steel (2012)


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By Danger
From: Taipei City
Nov 25, 2014

A nice little sport route, that may or may not be 12a...
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Mar 3, 2017

After talking to some folks and seeing people climb it in different ways, I've learned that just like several other routes at LD, there are multiple ways to climb this route.

Basically, the differences boil down to how you climb the last two bolts:

1. Everything is on, including stemming out to the right wall. (11d)

2. Everything is on but no stemming out to the right wall. My understanding is that this is the way it's "supposed" to be climbed for the 12a grade. (11d/12a)

3. Crimp up the face from the 2nd to last bolt, avoiding the huge pinch to your right and the good pocket higher up and to the right. This is significantly harder than 1 or 2 and clocks in at 12a/12b
By BrianWS
Mar 3, 2017

Additionally, you can campus with only your left hand, middle finger off, foreskin jams optional, and wearing a blindfold to make it 15+ ;)


Awesome route, no matter if you choose to eliminate obvious weaknesses or features.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Mar 4, 2017

This route, if climbed with the intuitive holds available, is not a 5.12a either at Long Dong or anywhere else. If Nowhere Man were the benchmark 12a, then this is definitely easier, more like Black-Faced Man or First Corner. Definitely not as hard as Big Rock Falling or Coach Demonstrates.

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