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Super-positive holds all up and down this classic route make it an extremely popular climb. a good place to play for the new leader and the old alike.
Follow the prominent crack/flake system that starts in the center of the wall, about 15 feet beneath a small overhang. Pull through it and follow the parallel left-leaning cracks up to the next bulge. Work your way over or around the bulge near the top to the large platform.
There are many variations possible. Some follow the parallel cracks exactly, some work the face on either side. One fun variation is to traverse left until above Mike's Finger Buckets before you pass by the first overhang and then climb the featured green face to the top. The climbing doesn't get any harder than 5.6 or 5.7, whatever you opt to play on.
Vertical Extension (5.4* PG) An excellent optional finish is to continue climbing up the right-facing wall/arete to the Slimey Ledge. This gives you another 15 feet or so additional climbing.
Climb any where under the overhang. Best if you follow the crack/flake system.
A std. rack will work. 2 and 4 foot runners are good to have. A #1 or #2 C4 fits really well under the overhang.
By La Vidorra
Oct 27, 2015
Super fun climb with excellent holds and rests!