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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
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Vertical Smile T 
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Vertical Smile 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Harrison & Stuberg
Page Views: 1,377
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Luke following Vertical Smile. I'm belaying from a...

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  • Description 

    Rossiter's description is accurate because it is so vague - finding Vertical Smile is not obvious. Head towards the start of the Lower Ramp, but before reaching it, bushwhack (or find a faint trail) to the SW and skirt around the Lower Ramp to a smaller ramp that runs alongside a large roof system. Here you'll see the fairly obvious line that is Wave Rave. From here, scramble up the ramp until you are only 10-20 feet from the end of it (you should see a tree you can rap off of to the west on the far side of Redgarden Wall). Look up past a 20' high rotten section for a thin crack that leads to a small tree - visible at the top of the route.

    The climbing is fun, but the first 20' of rotten rock is really bad and not very protectable. I recommend climbing in from the left or right to avoid as much of it as possible. Once you're in the crack system, the climbing is decent.

    I had hoped to climb this and Quo Vadis (which I could not find - any ideas?) this would be a good warmup pitch for Ruper as it deposits you at the top of the Lower Ramp.


    Mostly thin - stoppers, small to medium cams.

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    Comments on Vertical Smile Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 7, 2002

    We fired quite a bit of rock off the upper bit of this pitch (might help?). We didn't find Quo Vadis either. Perhaps 1 star is too much?
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 27, 2006

    I felt this climb's only redeeming value was late season afternoon sun, with the climbing on junk rock with only a couple of interesting moves. The top is very near, or may coincide, with the top pitch of Slimy Spoon. As for Quo Vadis (1 of 2 with that name in Rossiter's guide), it seems that either it doesn't exist or it's the same as Vertical Smile.
    By Paul S
    From: Fruita, CO
    Dec 8, 2006

    A few months ago a friend and I did what we thought was Quo Vadis. To get to it, we went to the top of the ramp, and there's a dihedral of bad rock. We went up this, and it quickly gets better, and had some fun stemming moves on it and felt 5.8ish to me, so maybe that was it?? but it may of been the second pitch of Slimy Spoon also...
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Dec 8, 2006

    Paul, I'm pretty sure you were on P2 of Slimy Spoon. It climbs a chimney/stemming slot into a left-facing corner. I looked at it the other day when we did what we thought was Vertical Smile. There are no other features on the left side of the wall that could be Quo Vadis.
    By Bob Brockwehl
    From: Golden, CO
    Nov 23, 2008

    Rossiter's description of this climb as a "Bastille-like crack" is misleading, if not false. The crack is not large and obvious, and its quality is not Bastille-like. I would definitely recommend approaching by climbing the first pitch of Slimy Spoon (despite its chossiness), rather than bushwacking and scrambling up the diagonal ledge. The Vertical Smile is the first crack system to the right of the large corner that is P2 of Slimy Spoon. Climbing both of these would make it worth climbing P1 of Slimy, but a rappel or downclimb from the Lower Ramp to the diagonal ledge would be required. Quo Vadis does not exist. Does anyone know if there is a rappel from the top of the lower ramp to the ground?
    By Drew Spaulding
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 4, 2014
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Although very ignored and overlooked...this really is one of the nicer single-pitch 5.7 routes in Eldo. Incredible position, beautiful features, thin crack, and some challenging sections. Classic!
    By MacP
    From: Denver, CO
    Nov 10, 2015
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I agree with Drew, it's a good pitch. The climbing is surprisingly steep on good holds with one reachy move in the middle. This makes climbing Slimy Spoon P1 worth it and is great to link into Ruper.

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