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Vector Madness Wall
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Vertical Component 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Taylor, Pat Contor
Page Views: 92
Submitted By: Alec LaLonde on Jun 19, 2012

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Description 

The left line which tackles the steep dihedral directly. Follow two well-spaced bolts up a licheny, moderate slab, then continue directly up to the dihedral. Pull some steep hero moves up undulating cracks until topping out above the roof. Climbs like a sport route with gear, and steeper than it looks!

Rap the route with a single 60m, or continue up the slab past the anchors to the top.

Protection 

Two bolts on the slab, then gear to the top. A standard BCC single rack suffices. One placement is behind a flake which I wouldn't really want to fall on...

Two bolt anchor with slings.


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By John Steiger
Sep 12, 2014

A new bolt, added to Vector Madness (placed with Gary’s permission), can be used to reach the overhanging dihedral rather than the sketchy piece mentioned by Alec. Chains on top. Great position in the dihedral, well worth doing. Most loose flakes cleaned and face freshly brushed as of this writing – get on it before the lichen grows back!
By tenesmus
Aug 1, 2015

I'm a minimalist when it comes to using bolts but was really happy to have the new one. You can be a super trad man and skip them all but the gear will be super sketchy and out of character with the rest of the climb. The reason you're there is the steep, juggy section with all those perfect gear placements. This climb is perfect for .11a sport climbers trying to break into .10 trad because you'll find the great feet that give plenty of time for the really easy gear placements.

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