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Lightning Bolt Crag
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Crack Dream T 
Cracker Dream TR 
Edge to a Smear TR 
Scorpion Crack T 
Vertical Beach T 

Vertical Beach 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ????
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Feb 28, 2016

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Description 

Another route I've entered to which I know very little. I onsighted it with no knowledge of prior ascents. Please leave information in the comments if you know the name and history of this crack.

Starts off easy enough with first pro 15ft or so up. Black rock is slippery, light rock is crumbly. Crack widens in spots. Good pro (#3) near the crux, so it's got that going for it. Liebacked the right side of the crack while smearing on ball bearings on the left. Very tiring for my fat weekend ass. .10a or less, probably less if you climb more often than I (maybe twice a month now).

I'd avoid it.

Location 

One crack to the right of Scorpion Crack

Protection 

I recall using doubles from .5-3, and a #4. Didn't use nuts or tiny cams.

Used anchor for Lightning Crack.


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