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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,759
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Aug 21, 2009

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Matt coming up P1. Spinal columns found.


You'll want dry weather for this one. Both pitches feature smears and friction climbing cruxes. A bit of moss to contend with on upper P2. A fun route, but definitely not the lippy, edgy stone of the routes to the left.


Above the fixed rope "down step" on the approach ledges.


All bolts to chain anchors. A 2' sling is a good idea for the 4th bolt, where the route jogs to the left to a mantle over an overlap. Be careful of the grass ledge at the top of P1.

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By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Jun 1, 2010

New Favorite climb in the Dacks! Aside from the bit of mossiness, which was easily avoided and the grassy topout to belay ledge, this climb is STELLAR.
You get a great slab start and a taste of the vertebrae to come on pitch one. Then a taste of the crimpfest on the routes next door and the awesome vertebrae of pitch two.
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
May 31, 2014

This route is incredible - bring a wire brush. It appears as though a 10'x4' mass of dirt and grass has fallen from the top of P1 uncovering some nice holds and eliminating what looks like what would have been a sketchy grass mantle to get to the chains. P2 is still mossy but enough key holds are clean that it climbs much much better than it looks. Very unique climb.
By PeterW
From: Dryden, NY
Aug 28, 2017

Climbed this on 8/26/17. The route definitely needs some tlc at this point. A lot of the second pitch is overgrown. The bolts aren't stainless and are now showing their age after almost 20 years. They are probably fine for a while, but who knows, anything rusty is a little unsettling. There is also a thumpy flake at the top that should be handled with care.

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