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West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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Verschneidung Dihedral 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Erickson and John Behrens, 1968
Fixed Hardware: 4 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 10,768
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: VD. Classic wandering Eldo moderate. Mind the rope...

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  • Description 

    It starts out 5.6 up 15 foot corner with wide crack and then heads up easy slab between 2 big boulders and scoots up to slab traverse to the right and belays at large tree below the famous Verschniedung V-slot with perfect hand crack.

    Pitch 2 heads up to the slot, place stoppers and/or small cams before making tricky moves into slot. Then jam perfect hands for 40-50 feet straight up the V-slot. When this crack ends, you must go left up overhanging crack with big holds for 20 feet to slab....move up slab and traverse left for 15 feet to belay, now updated with a 2 bolt anchor (Metolius rap hanger & chains).

    Descent is one double rope 60m rappel and a scramble down to ground or two raps with a 60M rope. This route is just right of The Unsaid, one of the first popular areas to climb on west ridge. Verschniedung is easily recognized by a tower that rises above the ridge with a v-slot and vertical hand crack (easily seen from trail).


    Standard rack.

    Photos of Verschneidung Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce Theriault smiling at the top of the hand cra...
    Bruce Theriault smiling at the top of the hand cra...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline nearing the top of the corner.
    Christa Cline nearing the top of the corner.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline starting up the dihedral.
    Christa Cline starting up the dihedral.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Inside the super fun(!) dihedral. A couple feet ab...
    Inside the super fun(!) dihedral. A couple feet ab...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jamming in the dihedral.
    Jamming in the dihedral.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the dihedral.
    Entering the dihedral.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Leading the crack.
    Kevin Leading the crack.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Taylor Jung in the thick of it.  Belayed by his es...
    Taylor Jung in the thick of it. Belayed by his es...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda Leach placing pro at the top of the dihedra...
    Brenda Leach placing pro at the top of the dihedra...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Emil rapping down off of Verschneidung.
    Emil rapping down off of Verschneidung.
    Rock Climbing Photo: In the dihedral...taking time out of the first Eld...
    In the dihedral...taking time out of the first Eld...

    Comments on Verschneidung Dihedral Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 28, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    The rappel from the tree atop P2 can be done with one FULL 60m rope, putting you at the belay tree at the top of P1. The second rappel from there may require a short scramble down.
    By Mike Sofranko
    Jan 1, 2001

    Great pitch. If jamming technique is unfamiliar, this will feel very hard. If this is the case, an extra hand-sized piece or two or three will be comforting.
    By matthew sawyer
    Jan 1, 2001

    When you top out on the slab, be aware of a massive loose block on the right. I was going to anchor on it once, but when I checked it, boy did she rock and roll! If this bathtub-sized block were to come off, it would smear your partner belaying under the dihedral, and kill anyone coming up the trail.
    By Michael Komarnitsky
    Founding Father
    From: Seattle, WA
    Jul 16, 2001

    More beta on what you're looking for: about 60 feet up is a wide slab/ramp with a 40' tree with no branches below 35' - that's the belay at the end of p1.

    As far as rack, an extra 1 or 2 #2 Camalots would be perfect, though I was able to walk mine pretty easily - i.e. there are a lot of solid stances.

    Finally: what a stellar hand crack! I didn't want it to end!
    By Casey Bernal
    From: Arvada, CO
    Jul 30, 2001

    Casey Bernal - This is a spectacular route with a beautiful and easy hand crack on the crux. Through the hand crack one can also stem, chimney, and jam to get good rests because of the nice edges on each side of the v-slot. The slot also stays relatively cool on hot days, too. Extra hand pieces are nice, but be careful placing them because if you look in the bottom of the crack there is a lot lost gear. Yesterday (7/29/01), there was also one fixed hex that didn't look too good, but none of us could get it to even budge. Another thing to be careful of is when you do the first rappel to the tree at the top of P1, be sure not to toss the lines too far out getting them on top of the tree. I know this stupid but you can't see the tree below the slab and it is no fun to try and free the lines while doing an free hanging rappel. enjoy
    By Brice W
    Jul 31, 2001

    This is a fun climb. With a 60M rope, you can make it down to the belay tree. The rap from there does require about 10 feet of straightforward downclimbing, but it's nothing terrible. The hardest part of the climb for me always feels like the moves to get up to the bottom of the crack. The crack is perfect, and there are plenty of holds on the face for variety.
    By Peter Franzen
    General Admin
    From: Phoenix, AZ
    Sep 17, 2001

    Very cool climb. We did a variation to the first pitch, starting a bit farther up along the wall then traversing right to the tree at the top of P1. The hand crack is great, and if you have a lot of time and patience on your hands, there's some sweet booty in the back of it.
    By Casey Bernal
    From: Arvada, CO
    Feb 28, 2002

    Casey Bernal - Before you enter the dihedral, be sure to place good pro. I have seen several people place a nut that looks bomber right before the dihedral, but it easily comes out with rope drag. You can easily (if you are tall) stand up high and place a small cam, or even better if you are creative, a large #12 stopper. I thought this should be mentioned because this is your only piece of pro for getting into the dihedral - what I believe is the crux. Also, the fixed (?) hex is gone.
    By Andrew Mirrington
    Apr 14, 2003

    As of 4/14/03 the most direct start to pitch 1 is blocked by a fallen tree about twenty feet off the ground. Instead, use the next uphill dihedral, or better yet, climb the excellent 40 foot dihedral that is uphill yet further and leads to the tree at the start of the Unsaid. From here traverse down and right and rejoin Verschneidung.
    By Brian Sorden
    Sep 24, 2003

    'Verschneidung' is German for "dihedral." If the V-slot were 100 feet longer it would be the most popular 5.7 on the West Ridge. Walk your cams and don't tape your hands.
    By Brian Weinstein
    Sep 29, 2003

    Nothing short of delightful. Although, I wanted it to be longer. I'm not complaining by any means...great sustained hand crack. With that...don't forget the hand sized gear.
    By Bert Callicoatt
    Nov 23, 2003

    This 5.7 slugfest is a must for all of those that are still musing about the Bastille Crack sandbag rating of 5.7+.
    By Jay Hippel
    From: Denver, CO
    Dec 8, 2003

    Great climb. You can get into the V-slot by traversing in from the right, not so awkward with good holds. There are also bolted rap anchors at the first and second belay.
    By Edward Jenner
    Dec 18, 2003

    I was wondering for about a year now [whether] I should post anything on this climb. Finally all the above comments got me wound up enough to say something. First the story. As my partner and I were racking up to do this, two women walked by. They looked experienced (age, that 'look', confidence etc..). I don't remember the conversation exactly but after they ascertained that we were 'Verschneidung bound' said - and I quite clearly remember this part- 'yuck, that greasy @$!%!'. Don't remember the exact cuss. We looked at each other wondering what we were getting into but of course we had read such great things on, so ignored the comments and proceeded to climb the greasy #@$%!

    Well next time we might be clever enough to listen to two people who seem to know what they are talking about, but we are certainly clever enough never to try this pit of a climb again.

    With all the above comments I'm really not sure what to say. Obviously a bunch of people really like this climb, but I cannot figure out why. Equally obviously I am not the only one that thinks it sucks. [Maybe] just a warning that not everyone thinks this is a great climb so if you are wondering whether to do it or not and it doesn't look too appealing you might try something else instead.
    By Casey Bernal
    From: Arvada, CO
    Dec 19, 2003

    I have enjoyed this climb every time I have been on it. It might not be as good as the other 5.7 classics in Eldo (Rewritten, Bastille Crack, The Bulge), but it is a very good route, and would be classic if it was longer. The awkward grunt into the dihedral, the continuous handcrack with stemming edges, the unlikely step out of the dihedral on juggy holds, even the first pitch is not a bad 'approach' pitch. I would give it 2.5 stars overall.

    By Russell Oakley
    Jan 26, 2004

    Ok so I was Ed's partner that day-- June 2, 2002, to be exact, but beyond that, I don't remember anything about this climb, besides swearing and sweating. Does that mean it's forgettable? In Eldo? Is it possible that there are crack climbs in eldo that suck? It has to be me, because the pictures look admittedly sweet. I dont remember hanging out, maybe more grunt and groan. Who knows, Ed, maybe if we master el Verschneidung, then maybe we could someday aspire to Over the Hill??
    By Russell Oakley
    Jan 27, 2004

    Do Green Dihedral at Mickey Mouse Wall instead. Now there's one I remember...
    By shad O'Neel
    Aug 16, 2004
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    This climb is great. I think the folks who dont like it forgot to use their feet, its really not even that strenuous if you take your time. A word of caution if hauling up a beginner, make sure to protect the opening offwidth on the first pitch for the second, i.e. after the difficulties (#3 Camalot). A fall for the second without this piece would be brutal.
    By Danny
    Mar 7, 2005
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    This route is [definitely] among the best routes at this grade in Eldo. I also feel that the rating is right on. This is a great into to jamming technique. The only problem with this route is that the crack is not long enough. It protects very well with #3 Friends, or # 2 Camalots. Enjoy.
    By Matt Chan
    From: Boulder
    Apr 26, 2005
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Hey Shad, good call on protecting the easy-for-some, not-so-easy-for-others (wink wink) OW at the start. The lady friend gave me the evil eye when she saw that I hadn't put a piece in for another 20 feet. Mind your second so you don't get the dreaded evil eye.

    P.S. a 70m + stretch gets you to the ground on the second rap.
    By nick moeckel
    Jul 14, 2005
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I can think of at least seven phrases to describe this climb, and "greasy #@$%" never crossed my mind. There isn't exactly an overwhelming number of not-so-commiting routes at this grade lying around for people busting into 7's, and in that context this is a wonderful route. Rests after pretty much every move, no shortage of gear, I liked this climb a lot.
    By Buff Johnson
    May 8, 2006
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    It's hard to believe there is a symmetrical crack like this in Eldo. For those into Tech Friends, I wish I brought multiple @ 3.0 (the larger of the purples), so I ended up walking mine, several times - this cam was a perfect fit most of the way. The exit protects the vector with a 3.5 (blue) & 4.0 (silver); opening moves I used a yellow & red Alien on the block, and then purple alien entering the crack. Fun climb, rests are avail at protection points, this open book dihedral seems a good lead for someone getting into 5.7 trad. For me, I thought this was as much fun as Lichen or Not on Squat Rock, so I offer three stars for a great climb, but I think Classic Dihedral is a more defined classic.
    By Luis Barandiaran
    From: Longmont, CO
    Apr 23, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    My brother and I attempted this route yesterday. After successful goes on Eldo routes like Bastille Crack, Reggae, Star Wars, etc. we thought this would go down easy. This route is a testament to the subjectivity of route ratings. The crux section seems more difficult than any of the crack sections on the Bastille Crack and more difficult than Star Wars on the Peanuts Wall (5.8). Needless to say, if anyone retrieves our #4 hex from the bottom of the v-slot, we would be eternally grateful (and you will score a large Rogue beer of your choice!).
    Concerning the postings about the quality of the 1st pitch, it's certainly not a throw-away. Thoughtful moves at the beginning off-width and a fun (hand or feet) traverse across the slab to the belay anchor was fun as well.
    A 60m rope will NOT reach the ground from the belay anchor! You've got to double it up if you want to bail....
    By Buff Johnson
    Apr 23, 2007
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Sounds like you guys had a trying experience, but good to hear you bailed OK. Something to consider was that this crack takes gear all the way, so it's not too difficult to "french-free" if you need to get past something; or plug a piece, rest, shake out, & try to keep getting progression.

    Yes, the single 60M will not make it to the ground from the P1 bolts, but the downclimb & the point you come out of the system is trivial, I think.
    By Luis Barandiaran
    From: Longmont, CO
    Apr 28, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I wouldn't call it trying, but we had a good time. While Danny was coming back down from the slot, some guys had come up the first pitch of Clear-a-sil (maybe?) and joined up with us at the bolts. We teamed up for a 4-man double rope rappel. I'm not sure what the downclimb would be like from the ends of a single rope rappel... We'll be back!
    By Mark Cushman
    From: Cumming, GA
    Mar 9, 2008

    Not sure if this is clear or not, but I just wanted to add that there is a rap anchor installed directly above the tree in Rossiter's guide, and another about 15 feet left of the top of the V-slot. Two raps with a 60 drops you to the Unsaid ledge. This makes belays convenient also.
    By Benten
    From: Denver
    Oct 17, 2010
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Alright, come one now. Anyone who had difficulty in this crack needed to calm down and enjoy the ride. Jamming the crack is a novelty in this climb, because you can easily climb the slot like a chimney. Feet on left, back on right, and just chill. No muscle needed anywhere except your feet. There is a picture posted of a guy doing just this. Great climb, too short, blah blah. Climb it and don't be the least bit afraid.
    By Ted Eliason
    From: Westminster, CO
    Apr 23, 2012
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    The #4 Hex is still in the V-slot. Sorry we didn't work harder to retrieve it. I put the move to come over the P1 crack at an .8 move and the feet in the V slot to be thinner than most .7s in Eldo, so I put this route at an .8-. The riskiest move is right off the deck with fall potential into an overturned tree.
    By James Hicks
    From: Grand Junction, CO
    Sep 14, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Fun route! Despite a couple of the comments here, I didn't notice any greasy feeling sections at all. There is a stuck can about halfway up the handcrack that doesn't appear to be going anywhere anytime soon, but a couple of the cables are busted, so I'm not sure how much I would really trust it.
    By Jeremy C
    From: Golden, CO
    Jan 5, 2016
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Great climb. The first pitch is mostly just to set you up for the goods and feels more like a scramble, but definitely think about your partner on the short OW spot. The dihedral can be climbed more like a stemming chimney than a crack, but the crack definitely comes into play. Lots of good rests and opportunities to bump gear up if that's your style. Great position once you get up higher. We used a pretty light rack through #3 Camalot and were fine. Second rappel required a short downclimb even with a 70m.
    By Keith W
    Aug 15, 2016
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Great climb and very unique in Eldo. Wish it was longer, but it is definitely worth doing. Pro is great and there were no real awkward moves in my opinion. Get on it! Great 5.7 lead. Didn't use anything bigger than a #2 Camalot on the dihedral pitch. A #3 is useful on the first though.
    By Ben D.
    From: Colorado
    Oct 17, 2016
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    After climbing pretty much all the 5.6s in the canyon and most of the classic 5.7s and 5.8s, P2 definitely felt stiff for 5.7. That being said, if I had better crack technique maybe this would of felt easier. Still, a very fun an unique 5.7 climb and appropriately "Eldo-graded".

    For me, this was much harder than the Bastille Crack and felt close (but a bit easier) than Star Wars. I was able to sew up the P2 dihedral with 3 #2, and 2 #1 Camalots. Also, the stuck cam halfway up the dihedral is still there and not moving, but I backed it up with a #2 Camalot just to be safe.

    The opening dihedral, if climbed straight on crack style, goes at 5.8. If you use the left wall jugs, it goes at easy 5.5.

    As for rapping with a 60m, we had no problem with the 1st rap. For the 2nd rap (top of P1), we stretched down to a semi-living pine tree. Since we were rapping in the dark, we were able to to do a 3rd rap off this tree rather than do the downclimb. I have done the same downclimb in the daylight and don't recall if being overly difficult but didn't feel confident doing it at night.

    By mhagny
    Aug 28, 2017
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I thought this was cruiser, even though it looks intimidating. There are harder 7s in the park. In the dihedral, there are plenty of edges and stances to get gear.

    Double #2s on your rack would be wise. A #3 is optional.

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