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*Vermont Ice Climbing

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Smugglers Notch Ice climbing 
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From MP's sister site:

*Vermont Ice Climbing Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.22552, -72.5867 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 56,256
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Sep 9, 2011
Forecast:
Tonight

23°
Monday

41° | 30°
Tuesday

46° | 34°
Wednesday

57° | 33°
Thursday

38° | 14°
Friday

28° | 7°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Top of Hidden Gully, below the amphitheater

Seasonal Raptor Closures 2016 For access issues: please review cragvt.org MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Home to several of the best ice climbing venues in the lower 48. Smugglers' Notch, Lake Willoughby, and several other small, high-quality areas offer steep, continuously sustained, ice flows--and mixed climbing--from 50 to 500' in length. Approaches can vary from drive-up cragging (Bolton Quarry) to hour-long slogs (Smugglers' Notch and Snake Mountain) up steep, snowy slopes. Regardless, Vermont has it in abundance during the winter months.

Getting There 

Depending on where you want to visit, directions can be simple or quite complex. It is best to reference the specific area you want to visit, and/or buy one of the old guidebooks if you can find one.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

47 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in *Vermont Ice Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for *Vermont Ice Climbing:
Ragnarock   WI4+ M4     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 08E - Elephant's Head Area
The Promenade   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 400'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Plug and Chug   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 210'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Float like a butterfly(land like a tomato)   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Renormalization   WI4     Trad, Ice, 210'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Poster Child   WI4 M4+     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 125'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 05W - Easy Gully Area
Dave's Snotsicle   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 13E - The South Wall Area
Grand Illusion   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 300'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 05W - Easy Gully Area
Blind Fate   WI4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 10W - The Blind Fate Area
Twenty Below Zero gully   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Last Gentleman   WI5     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 500'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Jefferson Slide   WI3- M1-2 PG13     Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 02W - Jeff Slide Area (aka ...
Elephant's head gully   WI3-     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 170'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 08E - Elephant's Head Area
Glass Menagerie   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Blue Room   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 160'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 13E - The South Wall Area
The Tablets Left   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Mindbender   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 225'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Hidden Gully   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 650'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 10W - The Blind Fate Area
Crazy Diamond   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Easy Gully   WI2-     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 400'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 05W - Easy Gully Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in *Vermont Ice Climbing

Featured Route For *Vermont Ice Climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay for first (potentially second) pitch. There ...

Grand Illusion WI4+  Vermont : *Vermont Ice Climbing : ... : 05W - Easy Gully Area
Grand Illusion is a phenomenally fun and gorgeous route. It begins near the top of easy gully, which gives it an alpine feel and provides stellar exposure and gorgeous views of the notch.Pitch 1/Approach gully: From near the top of easy gully follow a right trending gully (~180’) leading towards the pyramid. This gully consists of 4-5 very short steps of ice/rock leading to one final section of easy ice and some super easy 5th class climbing. We soloed this section but I would suggest r...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

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