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*Vermont Ice Climbing

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Lake Willoughby 
Smugglers Notch Ice climbing 
Williamstown/ Brookfield Ice 
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*Vermont Ice Climbing Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.22552, -72.5867 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 58,305
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Sep 9, 2011
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Heading up the first pitch! I bailed from 10' up t...

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Description 

Home to several of the best ice climbing venues in the lower 48. Smugglers' Notch, Lake Willoughby, and several other small, high-quality areas offer steep, continuously sustained, ice flows--and mixed climbing--from 50 to 500' in length. Approaches can vary from drive-up cragging (Bolton Quarry) to hour-long slogs (Smugglers' Notch and Snake Mountain) up steep, snowy slopes. Regardless, Vermont has it in abundance during the winter months.

Getting There 

Depending on where you want to visit, directions can be simple or quite complex. It is best to reference the specific area you want to visit, and/or buy one of the old guidebooks if you can find one.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

47 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in *Vermont Ice Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for *Vermont Ice Climbing:
Ragnarock   WI4+ M4     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 08E - Elephant's Head Area
The Promenade   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 400'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Float like a butterfly(land like a tomato)   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Renormalization   WI4     Trad, Ice, 210'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Poster Child   WI4 M4+     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 125'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 05W - Easy Gully Area
Called on account of Rains   WI5+ R     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 400'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Dave's Snotsicle   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 13E - The South Wall Area
Grand Illusion   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 300'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 05W - Easy Gully Area
Blind Fate   WI4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 10W - The Blind Fate Area
Twenty Below Zero gully   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Last Gentleman   WI5     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 500'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Jefferson Slide   WI3- M1-2 PG13     Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 02W - Jeff Slide Area (aka ...
Glass Menagerie   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Elephant's head gully   WI3-     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 170'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 08E - Elephant's Head Area
The Tablets Left   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Blue Room   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 160'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 13E - The South Wall Area
Mindbender   WI5+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 225'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Hidden Gully   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 650'   Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 10W - The Blind Fate Area
Crazy Diamond   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Plug and Chug   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 210'   Lake Willoughby : Mount Pisgah
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in *Vermont Ice Climbing

Featured Route For *Vermont Ice Climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay at the end of the 2nd pitch. Pat McCarthy, 2...

Last Gentleman WI5  Vermont : *Vermont Ice Climbing : ... : Mount Pisgah
A classic long ice climb with alpine character at Willoughby. Last Gentleman climbs a huge, over 100 foot-wide ice flow at the back of the Last Gentleman Amphitheater. Usually done in 4 pitches but that can vary depending on the amount of meandering dictated by ice conditions. The below pitch-by-pitch break down is only approximate and describes how we did it on that particular day.Pitch 1: Traverse the left-leaning ramp past the bolt to the ledge at the bottom of a vertical flow...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

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