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Venous Vernish 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Murphy, AJ Burch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2005

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More like 5.11++.


On the left side of Upper Wernal Walls are two cracks which lean left to right. The left one is wider and on the edge of the formation. The right one is in solid black varnish and ends in a section of white rock. At this point the route traverses into the left crack, passing through some fractured rock (probably PG at this point).

Technical thin face and lie backing skills are required. Rarely do you find a jam, although solid gear is available for the whole crack. Small but solid fractures throughout the vernish allow for edging.

Moderate climbing leads to a large feature for a rest. Harder moves lead to edges at the top of the crack. At this point, technical crimping leads left to the other crack. No gear is available for the traverse, so make sure your last piece is solid. Some loose rock detracts (or perhaps adds) to the experience. Continue up easier terrain to the top.

Descend to the left back to the packs.


Thin cams and medium nuts to start, single hand size to finish. Slung tree and #3 Camalot for anchor.

Photos of Venous Vernish Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin, clean and hard.
Thin, clean and hard.

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By David Evans
Jan 20, 2004

DE was on this route only as photographer.

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