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Venkman 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Matt Kane 9/21/14
New Route: Yes
Season: whenever Keyser Creek Rd. is open
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: matt kane on Oct 10, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The big notch about 25 feet up is an unmistakable ...

Description 

Start on a block, and work up the first set of small cracks, looking left towards sloping up and left notch. Then there is the "cat's tongue", a rest block. Go up some more cracky stuff, a thinner more stable one, then a looser section, then cross the fin (which can be skipped). There are lots of options for placing pro. It gets thin in the notch and up near the top. This finishes across a fin, with your back to a 60 foot shaft. Use a sling anchor of the only tree on the rock fin. There is no easy walkoff. You have a slight chance of falling 10+ feet while downclimbing. This whole wall is an island.

Location 

To the right of the giant elevator shaft looking thing in the middle, around some pokey boulders, a square block stands right out. Look for the notch area. Rap off tree to get down. A 60m rope will do it all.

Protection 

There are no bolts. It is a purely trad area. There is a sling aroung the "duckhead" rock at top of "Suzy Triangles;. Use this one tree and a sling at top of pitch one on "Spice Drops", before the triangle. Bring whatever, completed it with a small and large set of nuts, 2 Black Diamond #1 cams, and a 0.5, 1, and 1.5 set of Wild Country Friends.


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