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Venice Beach 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Kirk Raney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 7,589
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Aug 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (248)
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Rizzo getting back into it on Venice Beach.

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  • Description 

    Pump it up as you haul through the starting jugs, then style your way to the anchors. Paint a righteous picture, dude!

    Location 

    This is left of Holiday Road.

    Protection 

    9 bolts to chains.


    Photos of Venice Beach Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lindsey starting Venice Beach.
    Lindsey starting Venice Beach.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lindsey climbing high on Venice Beach.  Second day...
    Lindsey climbing high on Venice Beach. Second day...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Marina Del Rey.
    Marina Del Rey.

    Comments on Venice Beach Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Crag Dweller
    From: New York, NY
    Aug 30, 2009
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Climbed this on 5/27. An enjoyable climb that will clean up nicely with a little time and traffic. Either I didn't see a couple key holds through the slabby section about 2/3 of the way up or this is one of the most challenging 5.8s I've climbed.

    Edit: I climbed this again on 9/18 and, either because the route is now cleaner or because I was paying more attention or both, route finding through the slabby section was much easier.
    By Jon Sinclair
    From: Lafayette, CO
    May 9, 2011

    There is a headwall at the 6th or 7th bolt that requires some thin moves. The crux comes right at the bolt with very little with which to make the clip. This 5 or 6 feet of climbing puts the grade at 5.9+. Pretty tough for a 5.8 leader.
    By Matt Pierce
    From: Denver, CO
    May 23, 2012
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The slabby section everyone speaks of was the crux in my opinion - was a tough lead for me. Also, Holiday Road is very close to you on the right and it's easy to be lured just off route to the right (you can see chalk there, etc.), but that is part of Holiday Road. Stay on the slab as there is at least 1 nice left hand crimper to use. Route is in good shape as of yesterday.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jun 18, 2014

    In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
    By Benjamin Lantow
    Aug 4, 2014

    Impressive crux for 5.8. Definitely felt 5.9 to 9+ even in Clear Creek.
    By Holly Killen-Vesco
    From: Denver, Colorado
    Sep 27, 2014
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Super fun. Great climb. Probably my favorite of the grade there.
    By Theodore Morrow
    From: Golden, Co
    Feb 18, 2016
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Very easy climb. If you compare it to climbing in Eldo or even Boulder Canyon. it feels like 5.7 or 5.6. Good warm-up or for a beginner leader, very well-protected with bolts, similar to a climbing gym.

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