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Upper Bug Barn Dance Wall
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Spank the Monkey S 
Vengeance is Mine S 

Vengeance is Mine 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Allman
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Bug Barn Dance Wall 1 Vengeance is Mine 5.10...

Description 

The left route on the wall. It's slabby limestone with somewhat questionable rock. A lot of loose rock is on this route. There are a few pockets, but it is mostly positive edges that you'll want to test before committing to.

However, still kind of fun and (judging by the loose rock) won't ever be crowded.

The crux is between the 5th and 6th bolts. Almost vertical with few holds, and those holds that are there are small edges.

Probably not a great top rope route because the route wanders right at an angle. A directional at the 5th bolt might help.

Protection 

7 bolts to chain anchors with quick links. Anchors aren't accessible from the top.


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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Mar 24, 2006

Did I mention loose rock? Both my daughter and I broke holds and fell while leading this route. I fell before the first bolt (fortunately, my feet were only 3 or 4 feet off the ground and I landed on my feet). My daughter broke a hold between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (at least we know the bolts will hold). Took us each a while to top out because we became so cautious about committing to a hold.

While belaying her I got used to the sound of quarter-size flat rocks whizzing by. Kind of like drunken insects. Bring your helmet (didn't help me of course; I got hit in the shoulder rather than the head by the hold she broke).
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 16, 2008

I quite liked this route. We did knock off a loose hold or two, but I think that most of it was solid enough. Just test every hold before you get on it and you should be ok. A helmet is definitely a good idea, though.

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