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Velocity Boy 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Gould, Agulara (1994)
Page Views: 924
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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This route follows the arete to the right of Danger Boy and joins that route at mid-height.

The opening moves are tricky and sequential--sometimes they feel absolutely dumbfounding. Once you're off the ground, straightforward and interesting moves lead up the arete to a large ledge. Once on the ledge, the route moves left and continues on the exposed upper headwall of Danger Boy.

For full value, avoid stemming wide to the concrete wall.


7 bolts to open shuts.

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By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 24, 2008

Concrete is always "off" isn't it?
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
May 30, 2009

At first glance, the opening moves of this route look frustratingly hard. Once you figure out the sequence, however, you might kick yourself for making things so difficult.

Good route. Much better than Danger Boy.
By kjohnson
Jul 5, 2009

Both good routes, WAY harder than rated.
july 09
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Aug 16, 2010

Yeah, this route is hard, but not "way" harder than it's rated. This type of rock can be slippery and confusing at first, but I would call this line solid 5.11c. No harder.
By Justine Jenkins
Dec 8, 2015

Maybe I was just missing the sequence, but I don't see how there is any universe where this route is llc. I'm not sure if this is a height dependent route or not, but the moves down low seemed heinously difficult for the grade.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Dec 9, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

For a while I'd been using a sequence at the start that was more like 12a. But I eventually found better beta that felt the grade; proper footwork will help you get a foot on the big blocky hold, and then its a wrap.

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