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Vegomatic 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 502
Submitted By: Chris JD on Oct 23, 2013

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Second pitch. Both cracks are solid, use the left ...

Description 

Haas, et al's South Platte guidebook says to start in the left crack, then move right once you've gained a large but somewhat rounded ledge at the upper 2/3 of the first pitch, then move into a wider crack on the right and continue to the top. I started in a crack on the right side that was directly under the right crack on the upper half of the pitch. The climbing was cleaner (avoiding all those d*** sticker bushes). The entire climb seemed to be consistent at 5.8, I don't recall a specific crux. Well, there is another huge sticker bush at the ledge you have to work around, that could be a cussing crux.

Warning - there is a large loose boulder just a-sittin' on the ledge of the upper half of the first pitch! Be very careful as it would land straight on your belayer!

The second pitch is really cool. Scramble up and right from the belay to two cracks in a sort of alcove in the rock. It is short, sweet, and a lot of fun.

To descend, walk back from the climb and look for a any easy scramble off the rock into the gully and walk back to the base.

Location 

This route on the right side of the wall. The trail dumps you at the base of Wally World and an old mine cut. Walk right along the base of the wall to an inset on the rock with some wider cracks. The farthest crack on the right is Eastern Front (5.7). Vegomatic starts on the left crack, gains a rounded ledge, and then continues on the right side of a bulge. You can't see the top of the pitch or the second pitch from this point.

Protection 

Up to a #4 Camalot. There is gear to found in all sizes but an extra #3 Camalot may be helpful as well.


Photos of Vegomatic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the left crack as described in the boo...
Starting up the left crack as described in the boo...

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