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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Joe Cote & Bruce Kumph 1975
Page Views: 80
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Ralph W. tackles "Vector", right of the ...


With all three bolts replaced, this might see more traffic. A good brushing would be welcome, but it "goes" OK now (2017). The 5.8 seems quite "old school". Its crux is quite a bit thinner than its neighbors.

START: Look for dark brown/licheny streak of rock about 20ft right of Groov'n. [As of Aug 2015 bolt # 1 has been replaced with a 3/8" s.s., this bolt looks like a slightly "off-line" bolt on Lost Arch. The new bolt is approx 12 inches left of the old 1/4 inch bolt (whose cut-off stud is still there), possibly to allow someone leading Lost Arch to clip it. (??) ]

Vector has 3 bolts, but I suspect most people leading it might clip the first bolt of Lost Arch.

Climb up to the first new bolt (2nd bolt if you clip Lost Arch's #1), pass it slightly on the right,making crux moves nearly directly over the old 1/4 inch bolt's chopped "stud". (some might say 5.9+) and continue up to a 2nd bolt (3/8-inch stainless replaced the older 1/4" bolt.) Continue to a huge "scoop" and the 3rd bolt (also replaced in late 2017). Step right and up on brushed footholds, moving left to the Lost Arch double bolt anchor & chains.


Draws and you might sling the pine tree.

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