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Morning Glory Spire
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Book of Dissent T 
Brown Flake T 
Chimney T 
Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
Fall Line S 
Morning Glory S 
Power Tools S 
Reach for the Sky T,S 
Siesta S 
Skyline T 
Strategic Defense T 
Veal Cage S 

Veal Cage 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro
Page Views: 466
Submitted By: Jason Young on May 31, 2012

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I thought I'd include this route for nostalgia (since I had a mini-epic on it years ago). Pull the large overlap/roof above the anchors of "Reach for the Sky" (a route which is an interesting feat in-and-of itself). Reportedly harder than the original rating of 5.11c now that "the" jug has broken off (don't know who could've done that). I bet this route seldom get done. I know it didn't even when it was 5.11c.


Climb to the anchors of "Reach for the Sky" and continue up and left to the next set of anchors about 20 feet further. Located between "Morning Glory" and "Skyline".


Bolts to a two-bolt chain anchor.

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By Alex Shainman
Jan 7, 2013

That person would be me...the jug breaker that is! Actually it broke quite easily as I was pulling the move off of it. That was in '93 or '94 on a roadtrip with my buddy Chip R. After it broke, I pulled some of the fractured pieces out, lowered off, pulled the rope and re-lead it. We called it 12- and moved on. I remember the whole roof feeling sorta creaky. It musta broke more afterwards because it definitely wasn't 12c; it was easier than the crux of other .12's like Power Tools, etc.
By dave bingham
Sep 22, 2013

FA - Tony Yaniro.

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