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Vast Emptiness 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Lewis
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Mike A. Lewis on Jul 8, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Andy Hansen at the 2nd bolt on Vast Emptiness.

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Description 

There are 4 cruxes on this route. Basically, each bulge presents its own challenge.

Heads up: the first bolt is up about 12-15 feet. The rock below the first bolt is not good enough for a bolt, so I didn't put one in. The landing is mulch and flat. Clipping the first bolt and then getting to the 2nd bolt is its own crux. Consider using a stick clip.

Currently, there is a loose block about the size of a 1/2 gallon of ice cream under a small roof just below and left of the 4th bolt. I wailed on it for 30 minutes, and it wouldn't come out. It's a great handhold! So, I think it's usable, but be careful. If you can get it out, great!

Clipping the last bolt is tough. Save some juice for that.

Other than the initial 12' and the loose block, the rock is quite good.

Location 

This route begins in the same chossy dihedral as Bare Necessities. Look up through the overhanging bulges, and you will see a line of bolts.

Protection 

5 bolts and 2 chain anchors.


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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 24, 2017

I "Hong-Sighted" this at 11c. It was much harder than that.
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 5, 2017

Fun moves and pretty aesthetic. The last bolt is hard to clip, a bit high for what it is protecting (two easy moves before the anchor). I clipped it with a long sling to minimize the probability of a bad clipping fall. Some crumbly rock that should clean up with a few more ascents.

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