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Varzob Valley - @19km Marker

Varzob Valley - @19km Marker Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 3,900'
Location: 38.72411, 68.79068 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 29
Administrators: Amadeus, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ed R on Jun 21, 2017
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BETA PHOTO: A work in progress... the bases of 5 of the routes...

Description 

16 relatively newly (since 2009) bolted routes on SE facing slopes. Grades range from 5a - 8a according to local sources. All routes are in the shade until 10am local time at the height of summer. There's 3 trees at various points along the base of the rock which provide shade near base belay points. Given that rock climbing isn't popular in Tajikistan you are only likely to meet one or two others if you climb on a Saturday or Sunday. Rock is good quality for Tajikistan - not crumbly. Some routes have been well cleaned.

Main concern is the top anchors - use of single metal anchors driven into the ground at the top of routes. Possibly a Soviet leftover, but they are 1 inch girth steaks with a slightly open loop at the top, which stick 2+ feet out of the ground. In some places these are close enough to each other to make a 2-point anchor, but in many places they are the sole anchor. There aren't many trees on the top, and much of the rock at the top is loose, so not appropriate for securing anchors. The other option is to lead climb and create multi-point anchors out of bolts and trad. gear.

Getting There 

Drive north from Dushanbe on the road to Khujand. Immediately after the 19km marker (about 20min from Vodanasos Bozor in the city) there's a bridge over the river. You need to walk from here. Follow the gulley up behind the property on the West side of the river - the site is about a 1.8km hike up on the North side. Pick your goat/cow trail! Most straight forward route is straight up the gulley floor and then clamber up the scree slope immediately below the site. There are some paths that appear to make a more gentle traverse.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here


Featured Route For Varzob Valley - @19km Marker
Photos of Varzob Valley - @19km Marker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The whole site.
The whole site.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking East from the site - down the gulley towar...
Looking East from the site - down the gulley towar...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stood at the top of 2 routes with one of the lone ...
Stood at the top of 2 routes with one of the lone ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the gulley - back to the road.  Site is...
Looking up the gulley - back to the road. Site is...

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