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Variety Delight 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: (Mayor) Ted Wilson, Curt Hawkins, 1962
Page Views: 5,094
Submitted By: Vince Romney on Mar 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Leggo My Eggo 2) Variety Delight 3) Just Say ...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Again, Ruckmans only give this one star. But becuase it's not a 5.7 you can just muscle up, and it requires a bit of thought, and movement in and out of the groove, I give it two. Besides, it's another one that's just plain fun. This route follows the large, arcing groove splitting the Egg in half. Move up the face and groove as required, protecting in the pockets and irregularities. Good placement skills are advised. Belay at the belay station in the trees. The second pitch moves along the face to the crack about 20' right of the belay station, and then follows the groove to the top of the formation. Reaching this crack is a bit run-out, but again the climbing is easy.


Bring a full rack. The groove accepts a variety of nuts and cams up to 3".

Photos of Variety Delight Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side or right side in? Yep, I racked on the w...
BETA PHOTO: Left side or right side in? Yep, I racked on the w...
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 offwidth
BETA PHOTO: P2 offwidth
Rock Climbing Photo: Off-width varietah!
Off-width varietah!
Rock Climbing Photo: Oh the variety! Oh the humanity!
Oh the variety! Oh the humanity!
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading P1
Leading P1
Rock Climbing Photo: After the initial hairy traverse, it's not too bad...
After the initial hairy traverse, it's not too bad...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 22, 2016
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 3, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Really interesting route for a 5.7 The gear is much trickier than other tough LCC 5.7s like Beckey's Wall, though I wouldn't go so far as to give it an R rating. Strange climbing throughout, and a more engaging lead than plug and chug 5.8s like bushwhack crack. This is a gem.
By Nathan Fisher
May 14, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There is a piton on the 2nd pitch, and chain anchors at the top of the 1st pitch. The top of the 2nd pitch has a couple of bolts with slings. Would you believe I bought some chains for the sole purpose of throwing on chainless anchors like this, but didn't bring them up. Finally, my thoughts on this route: The 1st pitch was an almost too easy 1st pitch. I didn't have any problem placing gear, and I only used a couple of cams, although I did run out the last 30 foot easy section. The 2nd pitch on the other hand forced me into a scared little ball. Well, maybe not that bad, but it was a tough off-width, IMO. I place a lot of gear and the smaller cams (yellow, orange Metolius) and a brass helped out on the flakes after the crack died. The area of the crack directly above the piton was very wet (This last Friday morning after all that rain), and my jams popped, forcing me into a fall. The faces on either side were way flaky as well. All in all though a good climb, with some diversity in styles and relatively good rock.
By chrisnsmith
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 16, 2007

Very fun climb. Led the first pitch and struggled following the second pitch. 2nd pitch did seem like a really tough 5.7. This is probably due to my little experience with offwidths (2nd pitch of Crescent is the only other offwidth I've climbed. The pro on the first pitch wasn't as tricky as I was expecting. I found that it took passive pro better than it did cams.
By Michael Buchanan
Sep 2, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

History: The first pitch was rated 5.6, the second 5.7. I would tend to agree with this, the first pitch is not as difficult or sustained as Bong Bong Firecracker or Crescent Crack. It really isnt runout either. Remember your trad climbing roots! LCC is an old school area with old school grades .
By Jim D
Nov 4, 2010

I just did the first pitch. It was very easy 5.7 (maybe even 5.6) and the protection was great, as long as you don't run out of TCUs. I didn't find it tricky at all. Find crack. Stick in TCU. Clip Rope. Repeat 8 feet later. The second pitch doesn't look fun at all, but I guess if you're into that sort of thing. :) Cracks are for hands and fingers, not elbows and knees.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 17, 2011

From bolted belay at top of P1, you can just make the rap with a single 60. P1 is a fun, relaxing climb that eats nuts up. Could use some more traffic/gardening!
By tanner jones
Nov 28, 2012

the second pitch is amazing. you can get some hand sized pieces initially, or plug a number four. i placed everything from .3 to number 2, though you can get a number 5 in for bomber protection.

after you leave the offwidth there is a really nice but dirty jug up and left, with opportunities for c3's or nuts. i was able to get a .3 to work but the second had her work cut out for her getting that thing out. a little chossy at the top but super fun.

there is a bolted anchor with chains at the top of the lowe blow offwidth (on the climber's right). rapping down from the top of p1 was perfect with a 70 meter, but i'd certainly tie some knots if i had a 60.
By Thaddeus VanDenBerghe
From: Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
Dec 26, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Be sure to get full value by doing the second pitch! For me, p2 didn't end up needing anything larger then a .5 BD. (well my first piece was a #13 stopper). If you exit out to the flakes on the left at the top, you will have to do a little bushwacking back to the east to get to the chains at the top of lowe blow.
By Paul Wilhelmsen
From: sandy, ut
Jan 6, 2014

Did the first pitch, excellent, but I believe Stan Pitcher is incorrect, it took all of my 70m to get back down to the ground, rapping off the bolted belay station.

Very fun climb, totally worth the scramble if your like me, new(ish) to LCC and trying to eat up all of the easier climbs.
By chrisIerickson Erickson
From: Salt Lake, UT
May 21, 2014

I didn't find the protection difficult. A .5" alien protected the moves up to the crack, then it was good gear to the top. I didn't place anything above a .75" camalot.

The rap definitely needs a 70.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 27, 2014

A 70m rope is better and you can even lower with one (have your partner tie in first though) but you can rap with a 60m. You do have to downclimb a little though so it would be best to lower anyone uncomfortable with that.
By Thumer
From: SLC, UT
Nov 5, 2016

Pitch 2 is what made this route memorable. It is physical, but don't skip it.
By JackCrockett
Nov 7, 2016

The big horn to the right of moving out of the crack at the end of the second pitch; the right portion / sub - horn of that horn is pretty loose.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Nov 22, 2016

Great 5.7 package. All about finesse and creative placements on the first pitch. Second pitch is a fun offwidth with plenty of chicken heads, hand jams, and holds to keep it within the grade. Protects easily with the gear used for first pitch.

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