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Variety Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 155'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 2011
Season: May - October
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Dec 6, 2012

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This route has every size of crack from tight-lipped Triple-Oh C3 to #5 C4.
Climb the initial block to reach the beginning of the crack, a homey hand-sized affair leaning leftward toward a steep dihedral.
The crux lies where the crack is widest, at the point where it runs through that dihedral, about 60' up. Continue up the corner until it merges with the buttress' slab, then traverse left along a tiny horizontal slit to reach a stance below an overhang. Head up to a break in that obstacle, and follow the wide crack that leads up left from there to a sloping ledge.


Go around the gigantic corner of the main face, then walk another 150' to an alcove capped by an overhang 100'+ above. This route begins 15' above the lowest point of the rock rib forming the right side of this alcove, at a block below the start of a left-slanting crack that sweeps up to join a clear-cut, left-facing dihedral.


Big rack, cams from #000 C3 to #5 C4. Doubles of #1 - #3 C4 may be helpful. Lug it, baby!

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