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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: AMC Club members
Season: Fall through spring
Page Views: 1,746
Submitted By: Eric Foster on Mar 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Placing the first piece of gear 20ft off the deck....


Wide low angle crack on the left side of the AMC boulder.


Large crack, second route to the right


Large cams from a #5 or #6 depending on how low you want to place your first piece of gear with the crack being widest at the bottom. #4 Camalot helps a little higher up,#3, #2 and a few smaller pieces as the crack pinches out near the top.

Photos of Varicose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cory M. leading with all the pro placed.
Cory M. leading with all the pro placed.
Rock Climbing Photo: Love those large cams!
Love those large cams!
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe J. on varicose
Joe J. on varicose

Comments on Varicose Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 25, 2016
By ZEric
From: Surprise, AZ
Dec 7, 2008

fun climb. a #5 cam would have been helpful, the largest part of the crack wouldn't take a #4 and it ended up more run out than I would have liked.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Jan 10, 2010

One of the better easy routes at Pinnacle. Not worth fiddling with big gear if you are comfortable at the grade. Also fun to move left and finish using the final bolt of Reunion.
By Tim Heid
From: AZ
Apr 24, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I agree with Eric, a bigger cam would'be been nice in the wide part. I was able to get a #4 in poorly semi early and walked it up into nicer territory, but a fall before the #4 was placed well would be painful.
By MacM
From: Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ
Feb 25, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I think this is actually one of the best routes I've done at PP. I did take the above comments under consideration and brought along the #6 for the bottom crux, which worked out really well.
By Michele Evans
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The bottom felt more like 5.7, slightly awkward, loved placing a #5, & a 4. Fun route & a good way to get a TR up.
By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
Jan 20, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

That was a fun route. Didn't feel sketchy at all. A #5 at the bottom is great, but it's not required if you are OK with standing up in the flake to place a #4 up high.

Video of Climbing Varicose.
By charlie c
Jan 29, 2015

I have to young kids and am looking for climbs for them. Could this one be top roped? Or would there be to much rope drag? thanks
By The Cave
Feb 19, 2015

Charlie C, I just returned from a climbing trip in the area. We had a 3, 4, 7, 9 and 12 year old in our party. It can be top roped and was the only really easy route we could find that all the kids could get on. My 4 year old managed about 2/3rds of the route. Its a really fun climb, i enjoyed hiking it.
Have fun out there!!

There are a great concentration of climbs in the lower grades in the mine area of Queen Creek canyon. We had a lot of luck there.
By Anthony Miklas
From: Phoenix , Arizona
Nov 7, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Super fun warm up. A little run out from the ground to the first placement of gear, but thats only because the largest piece of gear I had was a #3.
By TKlein
From: Tempe, AZ
Jan 25, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Placed a #4 comfortably about 12 feet off the deck. Super fun route and great for the beginning trad lead climber.
By Brian Carver
From: Boulder, Co
Nov 25, 2016

This route is not PG13 if you own large cams (5 or 6) or if from the starting pedestal you find the constriction to place a bomber #2 c4. If you have a competent belayer the #2 will only protect you from the ground for a short move or two until you reach better feet. From here you can place a tipped #4 and scoot it up as you gain easy climbing. I searched hard on lead and on my way down as well, the lowest spot i could fit the #4 was 20 feet of the deck.

Only a good begginning lead for the large cam owner.

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