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Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 703
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Sep 25, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: This topo is taken from p. 267 of Rossiter's 2000 ...

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  • Description 

    This variation isn't found in any databases or guidebooks that I have seen, and it seems no less significant than many of the routes listed herein or therein — which isn't saying much.

    On Feb 19, 1984, I led a variation to the third pitch of The Yellow Spur. It begins from a belay atop the second-pitch variation (Dalke/Ament, 1962, 5.8), the right-facing dihedral that goes straight up from the top of Yellow Spur's first pitch. Above this second-pitch dihedral, I climbed up into another right-facing dihedral. Where this dihedral ended, I climbed over a rotten bulge and continued up to the red traverse ledge, arriving near the base of the giant, left-facing dihedral on the Yellow Spur's fourth pitch. My partner was Anne Leibold.

    Location 

    This variation begins atop the Dalke/Ament variation to the second pitch of The Yellow Spur.

    Protection 

    SR. I remember fiddling with pro for a long time before committing to surmount the rotten bulge and heading farther into unknown territory, while Anne encouraged me to retreat. The sun was going down.


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