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Variation to Graceland Ledge T 

Variation to Graceland Ledge 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2 [details]
FA: Gunnar Karlsen/Hjarrand Julsrud 2000
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Ian Hanson on Apr 16, 2013

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Description 

9 pitch variation that leads to Graceland Ledge from Coolio Ledge in between Fjordcruise and Kayser Söze. Shares the first two pitches of Kayser Söze.

Pitch by pitch:
1. 30m 5.4
2. 35m 5.8 Coolio ledge Bivi. The variation starts up the left-hand side of Coolio ledge.
3. 30m 5.9 Climb up to a small ledge.
4. 35m 5.6 A1 Follow the dihedral up to a good ledge.
5. 45m 5.4 A1 Climb up and past a small ledge to the belay just to the bottom left of a dihedral.
6. 40m A1 Climb up to the left of the dihedral and pendulum to the left to a crack that leads upwards. Traverse right, to a belay on a ledge.
7. 25m A2
8. 50m A2
9. 35m A1 GRACELAND!

The upper pitches of Fjordcruise 5.10d A2+ (to the left) or Kayser Söze 5.11a A3+ (to the right) can be combined with this variation via Graceland Ledge.

Location 

Between Fjordcruise and Kayser Söze. Starts at Coolio Ledge.

Protection 

Big wall gear, lots of wires and cams, 60m rope


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