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Variation to For Love of Mothernot T 

Variation to For Love of Mothernot 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: unknown, maybe Deb
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Deb Thompson on Sep 15, 2005

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look Ma, no bolts

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>


For a bit more fun, if you're in the area, you can ascend this trad variation on lead or TR to the left of For Love of Mothernot's second pitch on the left side of the second buttress on Mt. Thorodin. Then you won't have to have the bolts determine where you can get pro.

From the staging area for the CMC Route, scramble along a third to fourth class ramp heading up & left toward For Love of Mothernot's second pitch. After about 60 ft, find a belay at the base of a large tree (2 x 48 in slings to girth hitch). Look up & spy a lone bolt on a big flake/plate. The shallow left-facing dihedral 20 feet to the left of the bolt on For Love of Mothernot is the route.

Go up the slab, 8s, get onto the plate/flake either from its base of in from the L a few feet higher. Angle L past a small left-facing dihedral with finger sized protection. Hop into the large crack and go to the belay ledge with two bolts. 130ft.


A set of cams, wires, include Aliens.

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