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Gibraltar Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Minute Now T 
Broken Mirror S 
Crank Start S 
Inner Tube Toes TR 
Jabberwocky  S 
Klingon T 
Ladder, The T 
Mid-Face T 
Nose, The T,TR 
Sea of Holes T,TR 
Self Reflection T,S 
Shard, The S 
T-Crack T,TR 
Variation of the Mid-face T,TR 

Variation of the Mid-face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown (pre-1960)
Page Views: 1,401
Submitted By: Pablo Hammack on Jul 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Variation of the Mid-face line

Description 

This route begins at The Ladder, but when you get to a big ledge you shoot off left and go straight up a zig-zaggy crack. Then traverse left and straight up to the anchors. Definitely bring some slings to reduce rope drag.

Location 

Starts on The Ladder

Protection 

A rack of doubles to 2" and a single 3" will get you up safely.


Comments on Variation of the Mid-face Add Comment
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By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 25, 2013

Way to go on the FA! Amazing that Herb Rickert missed this line! (Oh, wait...)
By Pablo Hammack
Aug 14, 2013

If anyone has any information to add about this route or the FA please let me know. THANKS.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 14, 2013

The classic Tucker-Steele guidebook has a topo of Gibraltar Rock that highlights the exact route referred to here as The Bees. The Tucker-Steele book refers to the route as a variation of Midface, FA: Unknown, pre-1960.
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 15, 2013

(There's also the photo of Herb climbing it in 1955 on page 65, hence the "Oh, wait...")

I think it's safe to say that any rock in the front country that doesn't require a heinous, grovely bushwhack has been climbed---and most of the stuff at the end of those heinous grovely bushwhacks has been climbed, too, especially if they're under 5.11. But kudos for keeping the pioneering spirit alive.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Aug 15, 2013

Nice psyche, Pablo. Keep it up! I'm looking forward to seeing you hike all the 12s around the corner...
By Pablo Hammack
Aug 15, 2013

Thanks guys for giving me the info, appreciate it so much.

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