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Variante à Pétiole T,S 

Variante à Pétiole 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring/Fall/Summer
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: Seleucus on Jun 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Variante à Pétiole Topo

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.7): Climb a limestone pillar till you reach the belay to the left of a large limestone cavern.
Pitch 2 (5.8): Climb past one small cave and belay in another small cave above it.
Pitch 3 (5.8): Face moves to the next belay.
Pitch 4 (5.10a): Thin moves up the face (5.9) and then pull through and overlap (5.10a). Belay above it.
Pitch 5 (5.6): Climb trending right.
Pitch 6 (5.8): Continue trending right.
Pitch 7 (5.9): Easy climbing with a few difficult moves on a steeper section. Move around and toward the right side of a large limestone column and belay in an inlet on the right side of it.
Pitch 8 (5.10a): Move up the right side of the column for a few metres and then climb onto it using the obvious bolted ramp (the crux). Once on it, continue up toward the belay.
Pitch 9 (5.4): Continue up the limestone pillar.

From here, continue up the tower (easy climbing) and continue up the rather steep 4th class terrain moving right until you are able to surmount a vertical limestone wall and then move left toward the summit. At the summit, follow the obvious trail (well marked with signs) back to Lac Benoit.

Location 

From Lac Benoit, follow a poorly marked trail in the woods, surmount a few cliffs using the trail. Once at the cliff face, traverse left until you find the start of the route. It can be rather difficult to find the route, so try to locate it while at Lac Benoit before approaching. That way, it will be easier to find when at the base of the cliff.

Protection 

Mostly bolted but some sections could require nuts.


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